JOE-DOT-COM

Hi That should do it, I'm supprised you dont have any warning lights, you usually do for a faulty maf Car still usually runs as it uses a default set of values, but it will be limited power looks like it might be a previous dodgy repair, If it was me i would cut, solder and use heat shrink to repair cheers Joe

Hi Saw this on face book and thought it was worth mentioning cheers Joe

Hi read up further up the page at my other post look here as well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xebdRYwtjE&utm_source=JaguarOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals&utm_source=JaguarOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals cheers Joe

Hi Only was to know for sure is get a 4 wheel alignment check, halfords do it for under £50 but if your tyres are wearing nice and even, then I would'nt worry about it, If the tyres are wearing on the inside, then it might be worth checking if it were a bush, thats worn, you would know, it would be knocking over bumps there is a height check you can do, attached a pic below also under heavy cornering, I'm sure there suppose to, as the upper and lower arms, are of unequal length, so as the suspension drops, the top of the wheel pulls inwards and help keep the wheel/tyre more in contact with the road under heavy cornering that why when you lower a car, you need to get the camber setup again. cheers Joe

hi +1 for the hid lights there much better cheers Joe

Hi I'm sure the wastegates on your car are electronic are you sure you have'nt left a plug, unplugged cheers Joe

Hi Steve Keep an eye on your charger, My CTEK has a green led on it when it fully charged, then when the battery voltage drops the red light comes on, to show charging, for a short while, then goes green again. This is a good indicator of the battery state, it should stay mainly green and then just top the battery up every now and then, after its initial charge if it never goes green or takes ages to go green and then only after a very short time, starts to charge again, then you may have a battery issue or a leakage current draining the battery depending on which CTEK you have, the lights will be different, but there usually a indicator to show when fully charged, then it looks at the battery voltage, when it drops to a certain level, the charger kicks in and tops it up. so fitting a battery charger on it might cure it, but if there is a underlying fault, it might still be there. I have CTEK chargers on two of my cars, I noticed recently that every time I went in the garage the one on my mitsubishi, was allways red,charging, and within a few weeks now it never goes green now, to say the battery fully charged, so initially I thought it was the charger, as the car all ways starts on the button, so I swapped it with the one on the jaguar and it does the same, ended up being the battery, the CTEK charger was keeping the battery charged, but when the charger was removed, it starts to discharge and goes flat withing a few days but saying that, the bosch battery has been on the car for nearly 12 years, so the charger has done a good job of keeping it in a good state. cheers joe

Hi there's loads on ebay, used one of these myself on my S-type R and they did the trick, like new http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Headlight-Headlamp-Lens-Restoration-Polish-Kit-U-just-need-a-drill-VideoBelow-/390857513237?hash=item5b00ec5915:g:StoAAOxyR7tTkCiz also there's loads of video's on youtube showing how to do it cheers Joe

Hi I would say the EPB is faulty or hand brake cables have gone tight, you could live with it, but it will get worse personally I'd get it fixed properly, its either the EPB, more expensive option ( there's a epicyclic gears inside it, than run dry, not enough grease was put inside from new, then they wear and jam up regular, once worn. or it going to be the handbrake cables, they go really tight as they get old and corrode, overloading the EPB and causing it not to reach it desired position hears a link to a clip on how to operate the EPB motor manually https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xebdRYwtjE&utm_source=JaguarOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals and you dont have to disconnect the battery, no other memory will be lost. I'd replace the park brake cable first as there reasonably cheap, or at least check them, they should slide nice and smooth, also check the rear brake calipers lever for the handbrake operates smoothly normal s-types hand brake operates a lever on the main brake caliper, operating the inner pads only, if there not setup correct this can cause EPB faults s-type R up to 2005 has two brake calipers at the rear, one solely for EPB and one for footbrake, post 2005 went to budget brakes so handbrake was on single brake caliper I say budget as pre 2005 R's had four pot brembo's at the rear and a dedicated seperate parking brake caliper, then it also had huge 4 pot brembo's at the front, where post 2005 had single pot, sliding caliper at the rear, with parking brake and single pot, sliding caliper at the front I removed my EPB when I first had the car, knowing that they can be troublesome and greased it all up and checked the cables were nice and free and mines worked faultlessly for nearly 2 years now. also if the rubber boots have perished at each end of the cables, they fill with damp and water and this time of year when its frosty, your guaranteed a " EPB FAULT", or excessive rear pad wear and if there frozen, there's no freeing them till they thaw cheers Joe

Hi If its 2wd it can only really be one of the wheels, its the only thing big enough to give vibration through the car usually the propshaft will give vibration through the car, it has to be one of the wheels or a hub, if its been kurbed in the past some tyre places, like my local tyre place, has a machine that can balance the tyre on the car, it spins the tyre on the car, it might be worth look into that, see if the are any tyre places in your area that have a that facility cheers Joe

Hi Ebay, they will also need programing to the car for sure cheers Joe

Hi Is your car 4wd drive, if so I'd say prop shaft is favorite cheers Joe

Hi Its hard to say have you plugged in to see if there are any fault codes on the ecu have you checked all the fuses, power to the engine ecu and glow plugs usually with a diesel if you get fuel, it will run, I'd pull all the injectors and then crank it to see that they all squirt cheers Joe

Hi and welcome The wheel are Jaguar, seen them on other XJ's, They do look well on the car though, suits it as for the color, it will usually give a color code on the driver door shut, again a nice choice of color, may be some one will know the colors name is it petrol or diesel cheers Joe

Hi I fitted my own and it took less than an hour to do, its not that difficult I can also recommend the the parrot mki9200, it will give you full handfree and you can insert a sd card and play all the mp3 you want, think there about £200 fitted or I can recommend one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361703588070?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT there only a tenner, offer full hands free, it connects to phone via bluetooth, plays all the music on your phone, through your car speakers, via a fm station, as its got a fm transmitter built in, its even got a micro sd slot on it, where you can play mp3's directly from, so need to connect a phone if you dont want, cant go wrong for £10, I've got one in my work car, works really well cheers Joe

Hi That's a No I'm affraid But you can get a Audio connectivity Module, then you can play mp3's via a usb flash drive or even plug a Ipod into it, the MP3 usb can be controlled through the dash, steering control and even by voice control you can get them new but there not cheap, but you do drop on them every now and then on ebay I have one in mine and use it all the time , well recomended cheers Joe

Hi I check my tyre's on a weekly basis, I fitted Tyre pressure monitoring on my car when i first had it, there so cheap these days, display goes in the ash tray cigarette socket and the sensors just screw on the valves, for less that £50, they monitor pressure and temperature and it alarms if they hit your set pressure or alarm you have too these days, with the potholes and roads and its only that bit of rubber that keeps you on the road just a quick visual once a week of the tyre's, sidewalls and wheels, the pressure I can check in car now with the TPMS, it peace of mind really cheers Joe

Hi As peter says is correct, from may this year all DFP's will be tested for operation in mot's so if your DPF is a empty can, then's its a straight fail, its even worse as a lot of people had them mapped out, in the ecu, so the cost of a new DPF and the cost of getting the DPF mapped back in, also it will go on the mot history and these days with a simple app like "VEHICLE SMART", Any body can check the MOT history of your car with just the registration number, so will make the car hard to sell on cheers Joe

Hi At a guess,I bet its coming through the bulkhead somewhere get a bright light in the engine bay and look under you dash for light favorite would be the steering column, where it goes through the bulkhead, there's a rubber boot/gaiter, bet it either come off or perished I've seen some garages use a smoke machine, that they put inside your car, then they see where it escapes from the car to find, hard to find water leaks but with yours been a good draft , it should be easy to find cheers Joe

Hi The S-type is designed to be a comfortable car, so the suspension will be quite soft If its over soft then it can only be shock absorbers which control the bounce or Anti roll bars which control the body roll Its worth checking all the anti roll bar drop links first, because if any one of the drop link is broken, that basically stops that anti roll bar from doing its job if any of the bushes are worn and there's quite a few on the s-type, you usually know as you will get some sort of knocking or clunking noise I've never driven a normal s-type, I have a S-type R, which has the adaptive suspension, which is adjusts to your driving style, which can be very firm when you want it, just how I like it cheers Joe

Hi Andrew Post some pics of your cars I have a jaguar S-type R and a Mitsubishi 3000gt, these are my summer toys and they both allways put a grin on my face cheers Joe

hi Jon You should be getting more than 14 mpg's, or have you been a bit throttle happy with it being new I have the S-type R and its a lovely V8, there really smooth Hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine cheers Joe

Hi What engine has it got looks nice cheers Joe

hi this can be a common fault in winter, on many cars it will be the door locking mechanism, there a switch inside a that changes state when it locks, there will be a oily grease in there and it can go thick some times, especially when its cold, so it stop the switch from operating freely you could try like above spraying wd40 into the door catch/lock on the rear door, might work, but sometime it takes removing the door panel, then giving it a good spray with wd40 I had it once and had to remove the door panel, gave the door lock and central locking mech a good spray and it never did it again cheers Joe

Hi There is no filter to change, The DPF is a sealed unit, just like a exhaust silencer box and wont be cheap, £500 plus you could try changing your driving style and just keeping the revs a bit higher every now and then, this will get the DPF hotter and allow it to burn off the build up inside The DPF is basically like a filter, which builds up with soot, when it starts to get blocked, a pressure starts to build, which is monitored by the engine, which puts the DPF in to a regeneration mode, which basically heats the filter up to about 600 deg, there also a heater built into it, which burns the soot off, in to ash and out the back this is why if you put your foot down more often or keep the revs up, the heat help keep the dpf clean, pottering about every where at 1500 rpm and 30 mph, just keeps filling the dpf with more soot cheers Joe