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The Word Association Thread
Andy64 replied to Jaguar Owners Club's topic in Chit Chat - Non Jaguar Related
Cinema - Today
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Jaguar XF silver Hydra Alloy wheel paint
ARNSK68 replied to ARNSK68's topic in Jaguar Wheels / Tyres
Many thanks Paul, but it's the paint for the wheels I'm looking for, the car paint is excellent. Cheers. -
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Hi "You can connect direct to the battery terminals" Just a slight correction to above. My understanding is that you should NOT connect directly to the -ve earth terminal on the battery itself, but to a good body earth point. I use the spare wheel mount. The Battery Monitoring Module sits on the -ve battery connector and so if the charge current by-passes it rather than flowing through it gets confused as too how much charge the battery has 🙂 Jim is spot on saying you will need an AGM compatible charger. I use the CT5 START/STOP and have a CTek extension which runs into the boot above all of the floor covers so I can just "plug and play". IMHO it is worth doing a regular top-up charge as these are VERY battery hungry cars. John
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Yes i must find out what these S models are. Are they diesel v6?
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Anybody tried swapping the front wheels to the back? maybe (😃), you’ve got an alloy out of round
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Aubrey started following Event Ludlow Racecourse Shropshire 19th May 2024
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https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/jaguars-the-gathering-2024-tickets-805693820907 2024 tickets
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I think your car will have auto start / stop function and therefore you will not be able to use a "standard" battery charger. You will need a charger that can accept AGM battery technology. Typically these are of the C-Tek or Ring Automotive variety. You should be able to charge the battery in situ, with the correct charging equipment. You can connect direct to the battery terminals, or there may well be remote connections within the boot area. Typically the positive remote terminal is behind the vent panel on the NSR quarter inside the boot. The negative remote terminal is generally under the boot floor, in the spare wheel well. N6 JMX
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The Word Association Thread
Wrinkly replied to Jaguar Owners Club's topic in Chit Chat - Non Jaguar Related
Entertainment -
Sorry if this has been done before. I have a xf 3ltr v6 lux diesel 2012. I’m told I can’t take the battery off the car to charge and need a ctek charger. Can anyone please tell me how to charge my battery and what the process is please. I have a standard battery charger already.
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@abiltcliffe, what was the outcome after all? I have an XF-S X250 2009 and I have exactly same issue now and it makes me mad! Like you I decided to leave it for a while and wait until it get bad so finally could tell what is the issue, yet that does not happened. So far I have been at Grange Barnet where they did full car check and replaced anything that needed to be replaced (it was in 2022), then in 2023 replaced front wishbones. 2023/2024 replaced all tyres, alloys (twice - 1 set of 18's with winter tyres just for a try, then new 20's with summer Michelin Pilot Sport 5 brand new tyres). Wheel balance done each time on Elite Hunter machine. Last month I had replaced front passenger wheel hub as it was marked by Independent as faulty. Car has 135k miles on the clock. Been to Jaguar Grange, two Independent Specs, two ATS's - none of which see an issue with suspension. Recently did allignment check and the rear cambers are slightly out of the limit (negative values). Yet apparently there is no setting on them and if those are out of limit, it points towards suspension - which once again, nobody see an issue with! It literally drive me nuts as the car is wobbly/bouncy. It is not related to speed but the road quality. Even at slow speeds, when there is uneven road I can feel it all bumpy. On motorway if I drive with constant speed, the vibration can develop from time to time. All the mechanics give me "maybe" guesses and all are rather expensive - propshaft, driveshaft, differential, any other wheel hub. But no one can pin point where the issue really is. I am tired of replacing part by part and seeing no results.
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Andrew Williams joined the community
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Jaguar XF silver Hydra Alloy wheel paint
Freebird Paul replied to ARNSK68's topic in Jaguar Wheels / Tyres
Morning Arnie, Try these people, they have great products that should match your car by entering the Reg# car. https://touchuppaintfactory.co.uk/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw57exBhAsEiwAaIxaZucQFijE5P4Ga6SUmO9j3U3l1rsoQ4syP1V5RUa0s4DZj95tM2VoBxoCNaMQAvD_BwE - Last week
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Ian Dai joined the community
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Hi, I have just purchased my first Jaguar, it's a 2014 XF 3.0 S Portfolio Sportbrake, there are a few scrapes on the alloys so I would like some spray paint, could someone point me in the right direction, I have tried researching but there only seems to be the small touch up paint available. Any advice greatly appreciated. Cheers, Arnie.
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The Word Association Thread
O.T.H replied to Jaguar Owners Club's topic in Chit Chat - Non Jaguar Related
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Over heating on 2001 (51MY) 3.0 V6 SE - S Type
LairdScooby replied to Tony Raspin's topic in Jaguar Technical
You should be able to see the coolant in the coolant expansion tank Tony, no tube should be on it. I'll try and get a photo of mine tomorrow - my coolant is orange, i believe they changed coolant requirements over the course of production and different colours were used but i don't think pink was one of them. -
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Over heating on 2001 (51MY) 3.0 V6 SE - S Type
Tony Raspin replied to Tony Raspin's topic in Jaguar Technical
Hi Dave. I've just shone a torch down the coolant filler tank tube after removing the cap and I can see at the bottom of the tube the usual pinkish coolant. Surely with coolant loss I'd not see anything, or is this simply how the tube is designed in some way? Tony. -
Loose cable??? Anyone know if this should be not connected?
AndyK replied to leev8's topic in 1994 to 2003 XJ
Aftermarket maybe? Don't think my 2001 has such a thing. -
AndyK started following Space saver in 2019 Prestige? and XF retrofits
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Hi I'm looking to do CCF edits. Any recomendation on what and where to buy? Thanks
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Good question. I've used an Autel AP200 white so far. Annoyingly it doesn't list the 2.0 petrol engine, but when I select diesel most things seam to work. I would like one to change configuration options (CCF file)
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Thanks for the Picture Simon. Mine came without a wheel chock. I happen to have a LR one that looked the same but couldn't get it to fit, until I saw your picture with the chock sticking out of the foam. I see from ebay that an after market company are selling spare wheel kits these days. Called RoadHero
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Over heating on 2001 (51MY) 3.0 V6 SE - S Type
Tony Raspin replied to Tony Raspin's topic in Jaguar Technical
Lovely Dave, many thanks, Tony -
Over heating on 2001 (51MY) 3.0 V6 SE - S Type
LairdScooby replied to Tony Raspin's topic in Jaguar Technical
It sounds to me that the DCCV (heater) valve is working as it should Tony. I'd sort the top hose, get the coolant level where it should be and repeatedly check it for at least 7-10 days while cold and top up to the level if necessary. Because of the design of the system, it can take several days of shorter trips to get the coolant level to stabilise. I'd also suggest a new expansion tank cap, as linked to above. -
Over heating on 2001 (51MY) 3.0 V6 SE - S Type
Tony Raspin replied to Tony Raspin's topic in Jaguar Technical
Hi Dave, thanks again for all your points of suggestion. So to recap, while I do need a top hose 100%, can I know if in your experience / knowledge and understanding of the rough timing of events i.e. heater blower blowing warm air then cooler air (on same (warm) heater / air con panel settings) prior to yesterdays overheating incident, that I do not need to change the heater valve and that this purely coincidental? Would you change it? Thanks, Tony. -
Over heating on 2001 (51MY) 3.0 V6 SE - S Type
LairdScooby replied to Tony Raspin's topic in Jaguar Technical
Maybe Tony, it depends how badly blocked it is. It could also be that you've lost a lot of the cooling vanes between the radiator runners (that go between top and bottom tanks) which would reduce the ability to cool. Gentle driving at moderate speeds would reduce the need for cooling but going up a lot of hills, being stuck in traffic or motorway use would increase the cooling needs. Before you shell out on a new rad, i'd suggest getting a compression test done and also a cooling system pressure test. If you can find someone that can flow test the rad as well then so much the better. It could be you were just unlucky with the top hose and the relief valve blew on the new one (i assume it was brand new?) because of insufficient coolant and an airlock becoming pressurised to the point where it popped the valve.