Big John

Hi Ian Have you tried custom made hoses such as: https://racingcult.co.uk/products/custom-pre-made-brake-hose.html?sku=&srsltid=AfmBOopNKzZix-m3pfOXb97jpR9byU5McB9JxiZxdlQ_xQq1HzEAz3_idmo Good luck John

....Looks like it is same process as in XF 🙂 Setup should take you to the appropriate security settings to enable just the perimeter alarm when on a ferry. PDF.js viewer.pdf

Hi Ray Not sure on the F Type but certainly can in the XF. It is an option in settings to disable the internal sensors. It automatically resets following the next start-up. It should be in your manual somewhere 🙂 John

Hi Karol Only suggestion I can make is have you thought it might just be due to having 20" wheels? I know you have tried 18" but those were with winter tyres. I have 19" wheels on my 2013 Sportbrake and recently went to Northern Ireland in it, with brand new Bridgestone Turanza 6 all seasons all round. I had to stop twice and check I didn't have a puncture as the road surface locally was clearly different to those in NW England and I felt I could feel every imperfection in the road 😞 I am sure the narrower side-walls on 20" wheels would only have exacerbated the issue. Is there anyway you could try a set of 18" wheels with decent summer tyres? Also could you clarify the problem? Feeling bumps: do you mean through the body - Front / back / steering? Any accomanying noises? Also I would understand wobble as a clear side to side shake, is that what you mean? Can you reliably repeat the issue by repeating a journey over a section of road at the same speed? Good Luck John

Hi Fred Never tried it but I think I would try a glass crack repair liquid which uses surface tension to "suck" the resin along the crack. One I found on a very quick search was this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404719739646?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oe2eecklsqg&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=LpZ0osbLSWC&widget_ver=artemis&media=WHATS_APP John

Hi "You can connect direct to the battery terminals" Just a slight correction to above. My understanding is that you should NOT connect directly to the -ve earth terminal on the battery itself, but to a good body earth point. I use the spare wheel mount. The Battery Monitoring Module sits on the -ve battery connector and so if the charge current by-passes it rather than flowing through it gets confused as too how much charge the battery has 🙂 Jim is spot on saying you will need an AGM compatible charger. I use the CT5 START/STOP and have a CTek extension which runs into the boot above all of the floor covers so I can just "plug and play". IMHO it is worth doing a regular top-up charge as these are VERY battery hungry cars. John

Hi Alistair My understanding is that a replacement module will need coding to work. I would do a ring around and see if you can get the problem solved without a hardware change. Most likely problem IMHO is the software in the relevant computer module was corrupted by a transient low / high voltage event in the battery change (unlucky but it can happen). The simplest fix is to restore the software which is almost certainly possible with the correct diagnostics software and knowledge. Good luck 🙂 John

Hi Alistair I Feel your pain having suffered permenantly locked rear doors / non-operational rear windows when I let the battery of my 2013 Sportbrake go flat in the first Covid Lockdown. Mine was fixed under warranty from a Non-Jaguar main dealer, (after the AA managed to get in and jump start it) who did have access to Jag main dealers in the same group. They apparently talked them through the process of re-coding the module using their generic "Autologic" diagnostic software. If you search on here there have been a number of threads about garages who can sort this in 15 minutes for around £100. I think one was a company called MDM at Coalville Leicestershire Obviously the East Midlands is a long drive from Cornwall but might be worth it. I think my first port of call would be to ring around and try and find a more local jag independent (there is one in Honiton, Devon) and see if they can sort it. Pretty sure the BCM replacement would need coding to the car in any case. Good Luck and please let us know how you get on as it helps others in the future. John

Hi Phil Info to help replace the stalk is here: http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXFLightStalkReplacement.htm Lots of other useful info on that site. Sounds like it might be a dodgy contact in the stalk or a faulty Central Junction Box which controls current flow to both the indicators and the headlights. Does indicating turn main beams on even when light switch is off, or does it just move from dipped beam to full beam when the headlights are on and you try turning? John

Hi Frank I suggest you really need to get the fault codes read / read them yourself (OBD scanners are available for around £20). Without that you are simply going to be trying to solve the problem without actually knowing what the problem is. Good luck John

Hi Mikey My 2013 Sportbrake had same issue after I let the battery go flat in the first Covid Lockdown. Mine was sorted under warranty from a non-jaguar main dealer (they had Jaguar main dealers in their group who apparently talked them through the process). It is a relatively easy fix if the garage know what to do, or very expensive if you go to Jag dealer who want to just change the Central Junction Box. If you search on here ("Autologic" in the search tool) there are a couple of companies in the midlands who are experts and sort it really quickly and cheaply. Apparently they need the Autologic Diagnostics. Good Luck John

Hi Frank The diagnostic codes should still be stored in the memory. You can get a cheap code reader off amazon or ebay if you don't want to take it to the garage. John

Hi Kevin Can you give us some more details and maybe some photos? Is it turning at all? or is it the Filler flap not opening? John

Hi Peter Glad you got it sorted, and thanks for the update. Always nice to know how people have actually solved the problems rather than just having a list of problems and suggestions for solving them which may or may not have worked. 🙂 John

Hi Pete That sounds very high. My understanding is that quiescent drain should be less tham 30mA. That is 0.03A. That sort of drain would easily flatten a fully charged battery in a week. Car needs at least 30mins after being shutdown for all of the moddules to go to sleep John

This any good? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386276347833 John

Hi Peter First thought is low battery voltage. I had same fault on mine just after purchase following being sat in a station car park for 30 mins with the engine off playing with all of my new toys before getting the "low battery - start engine" warning. Air suspension warning came on 20 minutes into subsequent journey. Stopped and re-started and no problem since (5 years + now!). Had you done a lot of short journeys, and or not used it for a while? John

Hi Stewart. Could try this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dashboard-Protective-Jaguar-2008-2015-Sunshade/dp/B09H2VCT14?th=1 Regards John

Hi Frank Could be a whole host of different issues. You need to get the diagnostic codes read to know which one it is. Good luck John

Hi Paint code will be on the information label which is normally on a door pillar or door edge. Usually a 3 letter code. Good luck

Hi Tony I know this is in the S-Type forum but your profile says you have an X-Type and it does not look like any S or X-types I have seen before, and certainly not like my X-Type! 😞 Could be they did a different cluster for Japan?? Only suggestion, assuming you can't get a replacement - and as that screen looks VERY scratched, would be to maybe try the same stuff used to polish perspex headlights that have gone opaque. Is the screen still functional? John

Hi Graham You should be able to find them here: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/2010XFRWorkshop.pdf They are split into relevant sections within the manual. Good luck John

Hi Brian I have used this sort of sealant in the past on a Triumph 2000 windscreen (showing my age) and found it worked for me. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Captain-Tolleys-Creeping-Crack-sealer/dp/B003T6EJ9A/ref=sr_1_4?c=ts&keywords=Fillers%2C+Adhesives+%26+Sealants&qid=1708024242&s=automotive&sr=1-4&ts_id=303910031 Not used this one but might do the trick if the leak source is large enough to see: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Permatex-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield-81730/dp/B000BKEBO0?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A29LBC99T7K0YC Good luck John

Hi. I believe it is under the nearside bonnet catch at the front of the car. First on my list would be to try closing the bonnet by allowing it to drop from about 10" to ensure it has actually engaged properly and see if that cures it 🙂 Good luck John

Hi Lee Sorry to hear it is still an issue. Personally it is the sort of issue I would put up with rather than giving a dealer £260 to diagnose! Only other suggestion would be to try an independent Jag Specialist if you can find one locally. If you do get it sorted please post as it may well help others. Good luck John