Big John

Hi I think you have probably answered your own question. If the Diff casing is oily you have a prime candidate to investigate as it should not have any oil on it 😞 The atached might hep you to diagnose (pg499 on) but I think you probably need new seals and a top-up as a minimum. Regards John 650456070_2010XFRWorkshopManual.pdf

Hi Terence You really need to read the fault codes (or get them read) as that should locate the fault. All modern cars use a host of sensors to monitor various functions and many of the functions are inter-connected. So a possible fault, such as a faulty ABS wheel sensor, which is designed to measure wheel rotation, primarily to allow the ABS to function when needed may result in an ABS fault. However the information from that sensor is also used to allow other systems to function, such as traction control which is managed by the transmission "computer". If a sensor does not "answer" correctly when asked by its contolling computer for data, a fault is logged and the driver warned that functions may not be avaialble. In addition the car may switch them off to ensure they don't fail at a safety critical moment. For example a fault in the front parking sensor wiring disabled ALL of my parking assistance and reversing camera as well as telling me that I was "flying solo" and to take extra care as none of the cars assitance would be available until it was fixed! Hope that helps. John

For me the starting point here would be to check the actual level of oil. If you have been topping up because of a low oil level warning (was it low oil level or low oil pressure?) but the AA say there is too much oil in the engine, top of the suspect list would be the oil level sensor mis-reporting the level. Just to be clear though, did the AA say there was a lot of oil in the engine OR a lot of oil in the engine bay? The first indicating the engine is using or burning oil. The latter indicates an external leak. If the engine bay is full of oil then engine oil level may well have got very low possibly allowing the engine to run without sufficient oil damaging the bearings / bores / pistons but I think those things are only really apparent after at least a partial strip-down not after changing a turbo and EGR. Other than totally destroyed bearings / pistons / rings etc the only reason I can see for a new block is that the old one is cracked; and that should produce very clear symptoms. Depending where the crack is you would expect at least one of the following: Oil burning in the cylinder - Blue smoke in exhaust Oil in Coolant - Mayonaise visible in coolant resevoir Coolant in oil - Mayonaise look to oil (visble in filler) Coolant in the cylinder - White exhaust (steam). Minimum diagnostic, I would want, would be a compression test of each cylinder to verify location of a crack. When the engine does run is there any visible smoke? Regards John

Hi Jon I presume you have checked that you do not have a swimming pool in the spare wheel well. My Sportbrake had that before I bought it. I does cause these sorts of problems. John

Hi Jon Have the current problems appeared since the battery change? It sounds to me like some of the modules have had their software corrupted. It might be worth looking on here for a thread about a company which I think was called EE in the midlands who use the Autologic diagnostic software. They seem able to reocde modules with much greater success (and cheaper) than JLR main dealers! Can't hurt to give them a call. John

Hi Neil I would say not. It is not a part of a normal service and the previous owner was looking to sell on (to you?) so although the dealer probably asked the owner.... If it is a main dealer history you can look it up online or ask the dealer concerned who should be able to help. John

Hi Tom Sorry if I am being thick but why is it not covered under the Jaguar warranty at that age? John

Hi Richard Depends on the state of the car when you are measuring it. If you have unlocked the car and opened the boot to read it: Yes. As soon as you unlock it the car "wakes-up" and turns on all of the computers which use a lot of Amps. If you are reading it through a window with the car "asleep" then you probably have something which is suffering insomnia and failing to go to sleep when it should 🙂 John

Whilst that is probably fine, personally I also use a controller to fit between the solar panel and the car. The panel, if connected directly can reach 18v output. With a controller that is capped. I use one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143963161628?hash=item2184df841c:g:heMAAOSwkG1gO1QY and when the voltage reaches 13.5v it stops charging the battery. I only use this set-up for airports etc as normally keep the battery topped-up with a CTek when on the drive.

Hi Bob Front bumper off, but not as daunting as it sounds 🙂 ...and yes, Black is Best 🙂 John

Hi I would try storing it in a bag of uncooked rice for a few days which will help absorb any moisture and keep your fingers crossed. Good luck with the blame game... 🙂 John

Just a thought but if using a solar charger make sure you also use a controller as most solar panel trickle chargers can output 18v which could fry your electrics. A controller fitted between the car and the solar panel will limit the output to about 13.5v

I would try driving with the windows open one at a time and if possible find a section of road where bits have been resurfaced as that would help identify if the noise is tyre related. No change on turning suggests it is not front wheel bearings. Try manually selecting different gears to run at a steady speed. If noise does not change with change in gear its probs not prop shaft or differential as they will be spinning at different rates so should effect noise. Tyres are most likely 🙂

Hi Jon Any idea on location it seems to be coming from? I know these things are often hard to locate. Worse / better on turning, braking etc? John

My understanding is that the auxiliary only "connects" during a stop/start event to run the voltage sensitive modules and when the engine is running with the battery being charged. With the ignition off it is not connected. So you should have no problem changing it without using a slave. Having said that I am paranoid about the electrics and using a slave battery should not, of itself, cause any issues.... However when I did it I did not use a slave changing the Aux battery and had no problems. 🙂 Having had problems with rear door and window function following a flat battery during lockdown I would use a slave to change the main battery, but like I said, I am a bit paranoid about the battery. John

Hi Iain. Image attached to remove the top cover but from your post I think your problem is the bottom. I think that is not removable and would need a complete replacement unit or maybe try a repair with filler and repaint? Regards John

Hi Mine is 2013 so assume similar to yours. In audio on the home screen I select My music and then on the phone start spotify and it works 🙂 if you are still strugling maybe post some images or a video so we can advise... Regards John

Hi How did you get an MOT? I thought Park Brake Fault Light aor a Dynamic Stability Control light were classed as a Major Fault resulting in a fail. Kind regards John

Just a thought as the manual is from an american site it is possible that locations are swapped side-to-side for RHD so maybe located on drivers side. Hope you get it sorted 🙂 John

Hi This is from jagrepair.com: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/Elect-Tech All2/87 - 88 XJ6 Series III XJS Electrical.pdf Regards John

Hi Great cars you will love it. Things to look for are water in the front footwell and spare wheel compartments which are known issues and can cause expensive problems if the computers in the area get wet. Check everything electrical works. As Clive said brake discs tend to need replacing after 3 yrs or so. If it has Stop/Start make sure it works (should stop engine when you stop after warm up unless air-con, lights etc going full blast). If it does not work battery(ies) might need replacing and they are AGM so around £150 plus for the primary one. Other than that stuff you would do on any car. Check air-con blows cold, beware cheap / worn / damaged tyres, worn wiper blades all of which suggest poor care by previous owner. Good service history should reassure and I would beware of very low mileage diesels at that age as the DPF and EGR do not like a diet of exclusively short journeys. But don't let the above put you off they are great cars and I love mine to bits 🙂 Regards John

Hi Easily had on the Internet. £10 on eBay or Amazon, and if you have Amazon Prime same day delivery if you hurry https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grendle-DIESEL-MISFUEL-DEVICE-RESET/dp/B07RBX6M8S/ Under £5 if you try aliexpress but that takes weeks. 🙂 John

...and the 2.2D is either 200bhp or 163bhp.

Hi Julie https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/c2d20230-snow-sock-kit.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9pOeouv48gIVyu3tCh0zGQq_EAQYASABEgIWHPD_BwE Much easier to fit than chains and hopefully would get you out of trouble. 🙂 John

Hi I use the Bridgestone Weather Control A005 all seasons (all 4 corners) and am very impressed with the performance so far (A rated for rain) but not had any thick snow to test them in yet. I also have 4 Jaguar snow socks for the next "Beast from the East" but they are still in the wrapping and have never actually needed them in the 3 years I have had the car! John