Big John

FYI from Workshop manual: Parking Aid Control Module (PACM) CAUTION: Diagnosis by substitution from a donor vehicle is NOT acceptable. Substitution of control modules does not guarantee confirmation of a fault, and may also cause additional faults in the vehicle being tested and/or the donor vehicle Presume that this, along with the fact you are asking means it does need programming, butothers may have more detailled (accurate) advice John

Hi Needs programming 😞 John

Hi https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/jaguar_xf_portfolio_v8_auto Think number of that model registered in 2010 is 51 (total at end of 2010) minus the total registered before, 27 = 24 Regards John

Here is a thought. Having left my Sportbrake sitting during lockdown I suffered a totally flat battery, which led to a software crash preventing the rear doors opening. (see other thread) What has this to do with Stop / Start? Well I have been doing a fair bit of reading and they are linked. The XF has several dozen computers all talking over a network. One video I saw showed that with the ignition on and the engine not running the power drain was around 12A that is 12Amps not a voltage of 12 v! Computers love to eat current. That explains the dual batteries used for the S/S. As I found out with my flat battery; the myriad of computers and the network are sensitive to low voltages. Although unlikely to actually damage a module (computer) physically, a low voltage can corupt the software. That is why the small battery is there. When the engine is stopped all of the "computers" are fed by this "Fresh" battery as long as its voltage remains within limits. If it drops, rather than compromising the network stability, the car will restart, using the main battery for the starter (and non sensitive things like fans with the engine off because these things are not really damaged by low voltage particulalry when the starter is working) . So what is my point? If your S/S is not working it is probably because one or both of the batteries is not charged enough to ensure the car can re-start. That means your battery voltage maybe getting lower and lower due to age, short journeys, heavy power loads like lights / Heater / Air-con, Flooded Cell rather than AGM battery etc. So the non-functioning of the S/S should alert you to a low battery charge and if that means when you turn off the engine, and the alternator output is gone, but you still have the lights on and the heater fan or whatever the voltage MAY drop low enough to cause the sort of problems I had, next time you return to the car. Welcome thoughts and other ideas but I think if S/S is not working you can save yourself all sorts of grief with a new battery (batteries) and a CTek smart charger to keep the batteries fully charged. If it annoys you, turn it off as part of your start-up routine, but maybe you are also turning off an early warning system that could save you lots of money. Having lit the blue touch paper......... 🙂

Hi Simple reset was all it needed, covered in my "Warranty for Life" from Preston Motorpark. (very impressed. Actually a Volvo/Fiat Dealer but they have Jag dealers in group that they sought advice from 🙂 ). Happy days!

Hi Are you sure it is coming from the Exhaust Joints? Obvious possibility is Air-con condensate but don't think that is correct location. Just a thought but have you checked the boot spare wheel well for flooding?

Relevant law is here: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/daytime-running-lights/daytime-running-lights Basically models introduced after 2011 must have DRL but old models could still be sold. That applies to the XJ which was facelifted in 2015. Hope that help

Hi This is from US manual but may help. Kind regards John

Hi For me a 10yr old Battery is not one I would want to take into next winter as chances are it will fail just when it is most needed. If it was me I would replace it ASAP but certainly before the cold nights and frosty mornings arrive. Great believer in Murphys Law 🙂 John

Actually does make sense. Restart is triggered when you release brake pedal so presumably the sensor is the "swirch" to tell the car that you have released the brake and a restart is needed. 🙂

Hi Not sorted yet as garage still shut and I am still in shielding. Done some research though and looks likely that there was a software crash in either the rear door modules (which handle locks and windows) and/or the rear junction module. Seems a reboot should sort it when I can get it to the garage. Now keeping it topped up with the Ctek trickle charger. Hope that is all it needs, although mine has a "warranty 4 life" so hoping that will cover it either way. John

Hi I have been an XF owner for 2 years now. Basically if you get one with a full service history they are as reliable as anything else. Mine has cost the same to run as my wifes 2015 Skoda Rapid! The only real weekness seems to be electrics in terms of the battery. So many problems you read about seem related to a less than perfect battery. If you are only using for pottering you will probably eventually run-down the battery to a level where wierd problems occur. Solution is simple either go for a long run every week (also helps the EGR and DPF) or get a CTek trickle charger. If you do choose a Merc I hope you enjoy it, they are nice cars, but you will miss out on the unique Big Cat experience. I know which I would rather be sitting in 🙂 Regards John

Hi Being in shielding I had left my 2013 2.2 XF Speedbrake alone for 4 weeks only to find today when going to put it on drive and attach charger ..... Dead 😞 RAC got in and managed to get it going OK all good (Both batteries are less than a year old and both AGM), except both rear doors now not working (locked and won't open even from inside) and rear windows not operating. Any ideas? John

Hi Usual cause of this is you pressed the button on the dashboard to disengage the stop/start, but presume you have ruled that out as it should reset to operating and clear the icon when you re-started. Low battery is common reason for S/S not working. John

I Have 2 pairs of Jag snow-socks but have never actually needed them. Bought as an insurance policy as car came with 4 new tyres (Summer). As soon as they are worn enough to justify replacement I will be fitting Bridgestone A005 Weather Control (19") as past experience with Michelin Cross Climates on a SAAB 95 suggest all season tyres are all you need unless you intend going off road. Experience with the Michelins makes me confident All season tyres are best policy with snow socks as a back-up if in a very hilly / snowy area like the top of the pennines. John

Hi My 2013 XF Sportbrake had this before I bought it (cost of repair was just over £1000 at Jag indy according to paperwork). No sign of water since I got it but as part of the fix they left a small drain hole open in the spare wheel well so hopefully if it did recur it would not be so expensive. As belt and braces I have installed a battery operated flood alarm from ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Water-Leak-Alarm-moisture-flood-high-level-detector-sensor-bath-sink-overflow-HG-/223037327521?hash=item33ee0f88a1 I have put the sensor in the deepest spot in the well and keep the alarm itself in the boot and just test every couple of weeks. The braces part is several silica moisture packs dotted around by the battery and suspension pump etc. As part of repair, previous owner presumably cut a corner (cost) by replacing the AGM Main battery with a standard Lead-Acid battery which I have since replaced having read about the difference. 🙂

My first check would be: is the phone still locked to a different network than your new SIM?

Hi I have same spec/year Sportbrake. From my research it seems that I don't have the "mirror pack" which was an option to give Heated and Folding Mirrors along with Blindspot monitoring and reverse nearside dip. Mine has no mirror setting options available in the display and mirrors neither heat nor fold (but do adjust) which is a dissapointment and my only real complaint with the car after 12 months very happy ownership. John