Big John

Hi If you have an AGM battery with a Stop/Start system make sure you replace with an AGM battery. They are more expensive but they are what is required. Regards John

I will be renewing my 3 year rolling service plan in the new year but that is because it is tied to a "warranty 4 life" (Non-Jag). Looking at the cost of fixed price servicing for 3+years at Jag Dealers your service at 4 years and 6 years if you include a Brake fluid change would be around £800-900. Add to that the cost of the 2 year Service and you are probably not far off your quote.Personally I would never go 2 years between oil changes but I am old school 🙂 For me the decider is do you rate the dealers service and how much is it worth to have a contractual service arrangement with a main dealer in case of future problems? Obviously if you were happy to go to a specialist rather than a main dealer you could probably halve that quote. Decisions Decisions 🙂

Hi I would ensure battry is fully charged. Low voltage events are well known to corrupt the software which could be the cause. Was the garage where you had the work done a Jag dealer? Regards John

Hi Pretty sure you will also need to swap the Rear Door Control Module from your exisiting door to the new one or the new one will need reprogramming to the car. Regards John

Hi John Joe is quite right. Blue = Oil, Black = Soot. You say it is a recent purchase, in which case I would be going back to the seller if they are a dealer. When you say the Garage has carried out "every test" have they done as Joe suggests and looked for oil in the air intake system. Have you checked engine oil level is not over-filled? Regards John

Hi Baskar If it was me I would be at the dealers speaking quite loudly to the boss in the middle of the showroom and making my concerns very clear. If it has been with them for a week and they have not sorted it are they expecting it to just magically repair itself? If they have changed the Battery and the problem is not sorted what is their plan? As they already have the car you are a little constrained but I would want to know what Diagnostic codes they pulled from the vehicle before changing the battery. Also check your warranty as although the "battery" may be excluded so you may be on the hook for that cost (you probably would have needed to change it fairly soon anyway if it was the original) the current problem is clearly not "THE BATTERY" as that has been changed and the problem is still there. I would be looking in detail to see if the policy was based on listed items: "We cover the following items only", or exclusionary: "We cover everything EXCEPT the following." In terms of repair you first need the codes then it SHOULD be a fairly simple (not the same as cheap I am afraid) process to identify the cause and repair it. Hope you get it sorted soon John

Hi Baskar Sorry to hear of your problems. Have you tried holding the key under the auxilliary switch panel to see if it is then recognised? I had a totally flat battery due to lack of usage during covid lockdown so feel your pain. My only problem was non opening rear doors (totally locked) and inopperative rear windows. Sorted under warranty but believe it was a cheap re-programming fix if the garage know what they doing. Mine was in the dealers (non-jag) overnight but that was simply to re-charge the battery. Basically these cars have multiple modules which are little computers connected by networks. They are VERY sensitive to software corruption due to low voltage or very high voltage (that is why they have small second battery to supply the sensitive bits during a stop/start. However the car has a number of copies of all of the original files it needs which are used by the diagnostics to repair corrupted files; I presume Independant Jag specialists are rare where you are but if not that would be my first port of call. In the UK generic auto electrical diagnostics can sort the problems caused by a flat battery (Autologic systems work well). THe AGM battery used in the XF is expensive (Jag dealers charge similar to your quote) but they can be bought retail for less than £150 and are quite easy to fit. Ideally they should be set up with diagnostics but the car will do this itself if you just leave it (windows and handbrake need re-setting as well). If it is still the original battery (now 6 years old) it could need changing but the whole point of the AGM is that it survives deep discharge well which is why it is used in Stop/Start systems. To be honest I would expect them to be able to diagnose and fix the problem pretty quick. If not is another garage an option? Kind regards John

Hi Rob I am with Old Peter. I have a Ctek MXS Stop/Start which is mind numbingly simple to use, particulalry with a "comfort" extension permenantly attached in the boot. It really is plug and play with no choices to make or modes to set as it designed for AGM batteries. Regards John

Hi Mark. Have you reset all journeys? Mine has A and B and you can select the one to display. Reset only affects the selected one . Other than that I am out of ideas I am afraid 😞 Regards John

Keep the Jag and hire a Tesla as required 🙂 Simmples..

Hi Mark Just a thought but have you reset the journey it is calculating the figures on? Could be previous owner drove around town and had a very heavy right foot so you average is still including their driving. If I reset mine at a steady 60 on the motorway it can go as high as 60+ mpg. I have mine set so it records the average over the "entire" journey which for me is currently well over 2000 miles since I last did a reset. Regards John

Hi Tracey Only if they were standard or the original owner added the "mirror pack" when ordering 😞 Mine is a 2013 Sportbrake S and they are not fitted so the only options on my screen are, like yours, about windows global opening and global closing. Still think it was not really acceptable to have this as an option on a Jag but have to live with it as I still love the car. 🙂 Regards John

Hi Mark and welcome Mine is a 2013 XF Sportbrake S with the 200bhp engine. I average around 44-45mpg with my driving which is fairly gentle driving locally for 30% of time and Motorway at 70(ish) the remainder so yours does seem a little "thirsty" if you are doing similar. However "enthusiastic" driving could well account for that sort of difference. Assume you have checked things like tyre pressures and tracking. Regards John

Don't worry if it shows only 12.2v when the engine is running. It does that as part of the self-calibration routine. When mine is doing a calibration it drops to 12.2v under load but goes back up to 13+ on the over-run. When not calibrating mine is steady at around 14.8-14.9v. When calibrating it fully charges the battery then discharges it to 70% but never below12.2v to work out the battery capacity and state of health. It should then fully recharge. Hope your battery survived its swimming lesson 🙂 John

Hi Jason If you haven't already got one I would recommend getting a Ctek maintainer https://www.ctek.com/uk/products/car/ct5-start-stop-uk Usual reason for Stop / Start not working is battery charge state. A cigarette lighter voltage display (£5-6 off ebay) will give an idea of state. Remember as soon as you unlock the car all of the modules fire up and start using huge ammounts of current so my full battery at 12.8v will instatntly only show 12.6 on the display. If yours shows less than 12.2v as soon as it lights up battery charge is almost certainly too low for S/S to work. Regards John

Hi Wal First port of call with the XF when you have any warning lights is to check the battery state of charge. These are VERY prone to all sorts of wierd problems if the battery is even a little bit dodgy. From experience with the Saab 95 the usual cause of a christmas tree on the dash is an ABS sensor fault. I would try charging the battery if possible and then get the fault codes read. Good luck John

Known problem. Mine had it sorted by previous owner but cost over £1000 as electics were damaged. Now bone dry 🙂 Mine now has a little drain hole in the floor as a safety last line of defence (belt and braces) plus packed with water absorbing packs and a water detector (little battery device from ebay designed to detect water leaks behind washing machine etc). Call me Mr Obsessed. Entry point seems to be either rear light cluster seals or tailgate strut mountings. Hope you caught it before the electrics were permenantly damaged. Regards John

I think if you have changed the door control modules they will need programming to the car. Not sure if that can be done by any garage or if it needs a Jag dealer or specialist. Hopefully there will be someone more knowledgeable along to help 🙂 Regards John

At 4 years, could need a new battery and it must be an AGM not an ordinary one so probably looking at thick end of £300 at a Jag main dealer (around £180 fitted at Halfords and the like). If you are not doing many long journeys it could simply be in need of a charge. If you park on your drive I would get a Ctek maintainer (£70ish) to keep the battery topped off. I also use the Ctek Battery Sense which is a bluetooth device (£50ish) which connects to your mobile phone and monitors battery state so that you can easily see when you need to "top-up" the charge. Modern Jags (and all premium cars) are essentially a bunch of computers on wheels and take a surprising amount of energy even when seemingly dormant. If you get one of those cigarette lighter voltage displays and sit in the car with the engine off you will see a frighteming rate of discharge!. The last thing you want to do is let the voltage drop enouugh to start corrupting the computers software which can be fiddly to repair. It is why they have the second, smaller battery. When the Stop/Start stops the engine this takes over as steady power supply for the "sensitive" components leaving the main battery to sort out restarting and basic "in-sensitive" functions such as the air-con and lighting. Regards John

Hi No experience of the XK but presume there is an emergency key hidden in the fob as with the XF. You should be able to get in through the door (or boot) which has a manual lock. Regards John

Hi Ian It says in the handbook that it will reset after next start. I was just suggesting turning them off one at a time before locking / unlocking to see if it cured the "mislock" warning to identify which sensor may be at fault. Hope you get it sorted 🙂 Regards John

.....or If I had looked in my handbook first: "Page 15 Sensor Fault. If the security systems detect a fault with one of the security sensors, 2 error tones will sound from the alarm after the vehicle is unlocked and disarmed." .....so you could try disabling sensors from the security settings on the touch screenbefore arming and see if that makes a difference...... John

"The X250 central locking switches are located above the center console. The buttons lock and unlock all doors and the trunk. The switches are non-latching and allow all the vehicle entry points to be centrally locked or unlocked from inside the vehicle. Pressing and holding the buttons will operate the global open/close function. The windows and sunroof will stop opening if the button is released. When the central lock or unlock switch is pressed, a ground is connected to the CJB sending a signal to the lock or unlock motors in the door and trunk latches. The doors and trunk will only respond to the central lock/ unlock command when they are fully closed. If a door is ajar the central locking feature is inhibited. The operator will be notified of a ‘mislock’ by two audible chirps and a light flash. " The above is from the original American Technicians Training Manual from 2008. It seems to me to say that the "double beep" indicates the CJB has not recieved confirmation of lock position from one of the door modules when you are unlocking so announces a "mislock" even though the car was locked, so maybe the catch is slightly sticking but only being noted as incorrect on unlock. Have you tried repeatedly locking/ double-locking and unlocking to see if it maybe "shakes" something into place, or even slaming the doors before applying the central locking? Regards John

Hi Can I check that the double beep is on Locking?: "Over the last 2 days, when I unlock the car either with the fob of door handle I get 2 beeps. when it locks and the mirrors fold in" Just a thought but have you tried to open the fuel filler when car is locked as this is part of the locking process so could be the flap lock? Regards John

Hi Ride on my 19" wheels XF Sportbrake 2.2 200hp more than acceptable and look good too. Mine is an S but believe it is just the bodykit is different with a more aggressive front end and standard suspension. Tyre cost should be a factor. Pirelli P Zero at Kwikfit: 20" £235 19" £163 18" £120 John