Big John

Hi No experience of the XK but presume there is an emergency key hidden in the fob as with the XF. You should be able to get in through the door (or boot) which has a manual lock. Regards John

Hi Ian It says in the handbook that it will reset after next start. I was just suggesting turning them off one at a time before locking / unlocking to see if it cured the "mislock" warning to identify which sensor may be at fault. Hope you get it sorted 🙂 Regards John

.....or If I had looked in my handbook first: "Page 15 Sensor Fault. If the security systems detect a fault with one of the security sensors, 2 error tones will sound from the alarm after the vehicle is unlocked and disarmed." .....so you could try disabling sensors from the security settings on the touch screenbefore arming and see if that makes a difference...... John

"The X250 central locking switches are located above the center console. The buttons lock and unlock all doors and the trunk. The switches are non-latching and allow all the vehicle entry points to be centrally locked or unlocked from inside the vehicle. Pressing and holding the buttons will operate the global open/close function. The windows and sunroof will stop opening if the button is released. When the central lock or unlock switch is pressed, a ground is connected to the CJB sending a signal to the lock or unlock motors in the door and trunk latches. The doors and trunk will only respond to the central lock/ unlock command when they are fully closed. If a door is ajar the central locking feature is inhibited. The operator will be notified of a ‘mislock’ by two audible chirps and a light flash. " The above is from the original American Technicians Training Manual from 2008. It seems to me to say that the "double beep" indicates the CJB has not recieved confirmation of lock position from one of the door modules when you are unlocking so announces a "mislock" even though the car was locked, so maybe the catch is slightly sticking but only being noted as incorrect on unlock. Have you tried repeatedly locking/ double-locking and unlocking to see if it maybe "shakes" something into place, or even slaming the doors before applying the central locking? Regards John

Hi Can I check that the double beep is on Locking?: "Over the last 2 days, when I unlock the car either with the fob of door handle I get 2 beeps. when it locks and the mirrors fold in" Just a thought but have you tried to open the fuel filler when car is locked as this is part of the locking process so could be the flap lock? Regards John

Hi Ride on my 19" wheels XF Sportbrake 2.2 200hp more than acceptable and look good too. Mine is an S but believe it is just the bodykit is different with a more aggressive front end and standard suspension. Tyre cost should be a factor. Pirelli P Zero at Kwikfit: 20" £235 19" £163 18" £120 John

I can also recommend the CTek Battery Sense Monitor. Fixes to the battery and connects to your phone (CTek App) by bluetooth to give a state of charge as %. Actual voltage and Temperature on your phone. Mine sits on Drive and Bluetooth does reach front rooms of house about 10yds away. Very comforting when you are only using the car every now and then. Quite pricey at £50 but well worth it for the peace of mind John

Very Handsome. Mine is black as well so needs regular washes to keep it looking nice 🙂

Hi Chris Welcome. Usual cause of any drop in cooling performance is that it needs re-gassing. Any idea when it was last done? About every 2 years seems average and it is worth doing as the "gas" helps lubricate the system and seals and prevent bigger repair bills in the long run. Obviously it also makes driving much more pleasant 🙂 Regards John

Hi In the UK, assuming you bought from a business, you would probably be covered by the Sale of Goods Act because the "goods" were misrepresented as being "Premium Luxury", which it is not, rather than "Luxury" which JLR says it is. However I would be looking at going back to the seller and complainining about each feature which they actually claimed the car to have which is missing. Mine is an "S" but doesn't have the mirror pack which I think is not really acceptable for a Jag but the seller did not make any false claims about fitted equipment so I live with it, especially as I LOVE the car 🙂

Hi I do currently have a warranty which seems to work and was very cheap when I bought the car with it. (@£500 for life of car and a 3 year renewable service contract for another £500). It has already paid out for a rear door re-coding after a flat battery left both rear doors and windows totally dead. However..... That seems like a hefty premium, £700 a year is quite a lot of repairs and for me it would depend on the small print. Your profile says car is 9 years old. Even mine, which is a very good policy, reduces cover at 10 years or 100k miles. I would do extensive research in reviews of their payment history for claims (as you are here) and go through the policy fine print with a magnifying glass. I also had a warranty from Skoda for my wifes 2015 Rapid. That was £200 a year but virtually everything you might potentially claim for was excluded. It was not renewed wheras I will be extending my Warranty4Life on the Jag. Hopefully you will get some more views to help make up your mind. 🙂

Hi On the basis of Google translate that is: GOOD AFTERNOON ,, I HAVE A FAILURE IN THE XF 2013 IN THE LIGHTS ALWAYS THAT I WALK WITH THE AUTOMATIC CONTROL THE LIGHT IS ALWAYS A FLASH FLIGHT ON AND DELETE ANY KNOW HOW TO SOLVE '???? Have you checked the Lights are not on exit delay setting on the light switch? John

Hi If you can't find the real thing, lateral thought suggestions would be to try Humbrol Chrome enamel: https://www.fredaldous.co.uk/products/humbrol-enamel-14ml?variant=31477161918566&sfdr_ptcid=32296_100_590473681&sfdr_hash=b8e2f9bb593da3b1824476962cb83ea5&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6uT4BRD5ARIsADwJQ195xU2Lpx3JXmEWzVozBIclJGQ5zZIGPoMWEmehkTA7P_MNflVXQx0aAkbpEALw_wcB But maybe this would work better, They do whole cars in it so should cover a button 🙂 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stretchable-Car-Wrap-Glossy-Mirror-Chrome-Vinyl-Foil-Film-Sticker-Sheet-Decal/223950130707?var=522702069673&hash=item342477ce13:g:mukAAOSwf1RecfAY John

Hi Presume it is the 2016 model year but not sure the socket stays live with ignition off. Personally I use the USB socket in the arm rest. If you do use the dashcam with the ignition off I would ensure you are hooked up to a CTEK maintainer or you are very likely to end up with a flat battery at best. John

Hi If you go to https://www.tyre-shopper.co.uk/ and put in your registration to search for tyres it will tell you what the car model is: Mine comes up as XF D SPORT SPORTBRAKE Kind regards John

Hi Nicholas CTEK are actually Swedish so I am sure they will be available wherever you live. If not there are other options just make sure that it has overcharge protection. Simple trickle chargers just carry on charging and will damage the battery if left connected too long. My car has a warranty from the supplying garage which is actually a Volvo/Fiat dealer but with Jag dealers in the group.They rang the Jag dealer for advice and were talked through the process. As they are not a Jag dealer themselves I assume they have a generic "Diagnostic" computer rather than a specialised Jag one. They told me the Jag garage said it is a common problem and indicated it was a simple fix. They kept the car overnight to fully recharge the battery. I would take from this that a good independant with the correct kit should be able to do the job. It may be mechanical but I certainly think it sounds like a software (or possibly hardware) issue. In my case, I am in Shielding in the UK with the pandemic so left the car alone for over a month. Big mistake. Voltage was down to 5v when RAC finally managed to get in (Battery is 18 months old and AGM). After doing lots of research it is not just a JLR problem but effects lots of modern high-end cars.The problem is that with all of the computers they use copious amounts of electricity and that is even when everything is off. If you think about it it is never "off" as it is always waiting to recieve an unlock command or detect an alarm trigger. I have seen a video of a car with the engine off drawing over 10A. If you repeatedly do several short journeys, maybe sit in the car listening to a track finishing on the radio, it is not hard to see how the voltage could drop when you start the car. The clue is that JLR use an auxilliary battery to look after the computers when the S/S is active. That protects the many modules from voltage drop problems. It is a little like a desktop PC. Even without dodgy voltage they sometimes freeze and need a reboot. For the future I would at least monitor the Stop/Start and if it stops working as expected, take it for a long motorway run with minimal loads (lights off, Aircon off, sound system off etc). Ideally get a CTEK maintainer and Battery sense like me 🙂 Hope that helps Regards John

I had the problem of permenantlly locked rear doors (and non-functioning rear windows) after a flat battery whilst car unused in lockdown. I have posted another thread with details. Almost certainly cure is a simple reset (needs to be hooked-up to a garages computer). My battery is also fine (AGM batteries used in S/S XFs are able to be discharged to VERY low charge levels with no damage) but the multiple modules (computers) in these cars hate low voltage and it is very easy to let the battery discharge enough to corrupt the software. Sitting in the car with engine off you could be drawing as much as 10amps. Mine does not have powerfold mirrors but also these would likely cured by a reset. Apparently the car "carries" several copies of the full original software and it is a matter of running the diagnostics which replace corrupt files with original copies as needed. If you do get it sorted and keep the car I suggest a CTek battery maintainer. I have also just fitted a CTek Battery-sense monitor which is very impressive. It connects to your phone by bluetooth so that you can remotely monitor battery condition to prevent issues. If your S/S is not working as it should I would hook up the battery to a CTek ASAP as this is a sure sign of low battery charge state. Good luck John

Bought my 2013 sportbrake from Motorparks preston 2 yrs Ok. Actually a volvo/fiat dealer but they offerred a "Warranty4Life" if you bought a service plan. £ 400 for the warranty and £550 for 3 years servicing. Was a bit nervous about the warranty as with all insurance - the proof of the pudding is in the eating. As I have posted in another thread my rear doors stopped working along with with the rear windows after I left it too long in lockdown with a flat battery 😞 Lesson learned and now on Ctek 24/7 but point is repair was quick and free covered by warranty. They rang one of the Jag dealers in the group who talked them through repair. Basically I am so impressed with the warranty (and the dealer / service is very good) I intend to renew service contract on my XF for another 2 years (Warranty covers virtually everything until car is 100k or 10yrs old). AA relay included. Further I am then thinking in another 3 yrs when I intend changing (probs an XJ) i will start my search in the Jag dealers of Motorparks, (Nearest to me is Swindon about 160miles each way - with intention of buying with the same deal with a service plan and Warranty4Life. I really am that impressed I would do a 300mile + round trip to get it serviced). Next choice would be Jag approved and Jag warranty. John

Don't know if it will help but see attached workshop manual I found on the net. John 2010-2013_Jaguar_XF_V6_Diesel_Manual.pdf

Hi Think the Jaguar fixed price servicing cost for an XF 3.0D Camshaft belt change is £625. John

Hi I had similar problem a few weeks ago, see my previous thread, where battery was totally flat (which was why the remotes were not working). RAC managed to start car using Alternator terminal and earth to jump start car. Everything sorted except both rear doors were double locked and rear windows inoperative. I have a warranty for life from supplying Fiat dealer so took it to them. They also have several Jag dealers in the group (Motorparks) so they rang them for advice. Jag dealer talked them through process which they said was not uncommon and due to software crashing with low voltage. They hooked up to their computer (obviously not a Jag specific one) and reprogrammed / repaired software, kept overnight to ensure battery fully charged and all now good at no cost to me 🙂 I got impression that it was a simple fix, and VERY impressed that warranty actually worked! Maybe try ringing one of the Jag dealers in the group and see if they can help? https://www.motorparks.co.uk/dealerships/jaguar?group=Jaguar They are all in the south. Hope that helps John

Hi If you are doing regular long trips battery problems should not be an issue. In the XF Stop/Start if you are only doing short journeys the first sign of a low battery is the S/S stops working, which some people like 🙂 but these cars draw a lot of current when you have turned off the engine, so the battery voltage can get low enough to cause issues if you just do short journeys. If budgeting for a battery (I would) remember you NEED an AGM battery which will probably cost thick end of £200 fitted. Don't think an "ordinary" battery will be fine....it will certainly fail within 2 years. Timing belt is 10yrs or 100K miles I believe but I may wimp out and do mine before. My fuel consumption is 30mpg driving in Manchester (not rush hour when it is about 15mpg) with S/S disengaged, 35mpg with S/S. Normal mixed driving 40 + mpg and 70mph motorway cruise low 50s. Max economy driving; best I have achieved is 60mpg but Soooooo boring 🙂 Some say rear discs are short-lived but I reckon after new ones on mine at 60k (1st in my ownership, 2nd for car) I won't need to replace them until 100k. Hope that helps John

Hi Make sure you do at least one 30 min run a week to keep the DPF happy (I also only use Shell V Power). Check everything electrical works properly before you buy (including the Stop/Start) then invest in a Ctek battery maintainer and hook it up overnight at least once a fortnight. The software and numerous computers are sensitive to low voltage causing software corruption and resulting in odd faults. Usually simple to fix as long as you use a garage which knows what they are doing but better to keep charged. Make sure there is not a swimming pool in the spare wheel well due to leaking seals which blows several modules (Mine was sorted before I bought at cost of over £1000). I know some also suffer from water ingress in front footwell. Only other thing on mine is the rear subframe suffered from cosmetic surface rust so had it undersealed. Love mine to bits and for comparison in 2 years my 2013 XF Sportbrake has cost less to run than my wife's 2015 Skoda Rapid 1.6D Enjoy! John

Hi To me both of these cases are possibly corrupt code in the door modules as they both occurred following an electrical event, blown fuse in one case and possible low voltage event following prolonged standby conditions running on the battery whilst being detailled. My advice would be to get them both hooked up to the diagnostic computer and a simple reset may well sort the problem John

Forgot to say. if it is simply that the remotes have died (I haven't heard that being an issue) it should show in the fault codes that are stored. John