Big John

Hi Richard Depends on the state of the car when you are measuring it. If you have unlocked the car and opened the boot to read it: Yes. As soon as you unlock it the car "wakes-up" and turns on all of the computers which use a lot of Amps. If you are reading it through a window with the car "asleep" then you probably have something which is suffering insomnia and failing to go to sleep when it should 🙂 John

Whilst that is probably fine, personally I also use a controller to fit between the solar panel and the car. The panel, if connected directly can reach 18v output. With a controller that is capped. I use one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143963161628?hash=item2184df841c:g:heMAAOSwkG1gO1QY and when the voltage reaches 13.5v it stops charging the battery. I only use this set-up for airports etc as normally keep the battery topped-up with a CTek when on the drive.

Hi Bob Front bumper off, but not as daunting as it sounds 🙂 ...and yes, Black is Best 🙂 John

Hi I would try storing it in a bag of uncooked rice for a few days which will help absorb any moisture and keep your fingers crossed. Good luck with the blame game... 🙂 John

Just a thought but if using a solar charger make sure you also use a controller as most solar panel trickle chargers can output 18v which could fry your electrics. A controller fitted between the car and the solar panel will limit the output to about 13.5v

I would try driving with the windows open one at a time and if possible find a section of road where bits have been resurfaced as that would help identify if the noise is tyre related. No change on turning suggests it is not front wheel bearings. Try manually selecting different gears to run at a steady speed. If noise does not change with change in gear its probs not prop shaft or differential as they will be spinning at different rates so should effect noise. Tyres are most likely 🙂

Hi Jon Any idea on location it seems to be coming from? I know these things are often hard to locate. Worse / better on turning, braking etc? John

My understanding is that the auxiliary only "connects" during a stop/start event to run the voltage sensitive modules and when the engine is running with the battery being charged. With the ignition off it is not connected. So you should have no problem changing it without using a slave. Having said that I am paranoid about the electrics and using a slave battery should not, of itself, cause any issues.... However when I did it I did not use a slave changing the Aux battery and had no problems. 🙂 Having had problems with rear door and window function following a flat battery during lockdown I would use a slave to change the main battery, but like I said, I am a bit paranoid about the battery. John

Hi Iain. Image attached to remove the top cover but from your post I think your problem is the bottom. I think that is not removable and would need a complete replacement unit or maybe try a repair with filler and repaint? Regards John

Hi Mine is 2013 so assume similar to yours. In audio on the home screen I select My music and then on the phone start spotify and it works 🙂 if you are still strugling maybe post some images or a video so we can advise... Regards John

Hi How did you get an MOT? I thought Park Brake Fault Light aor a Dynamic Stability Control light were classed as a Major Fault resulting in a fail. Kind regards John

Just a thought as the manual is from an american site it is possible that locations are swapped side-to-side for RHD so maybe located on drivers side. Hope you get it sorted 🙂 John

Hi This is from jagrepair.com: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/Elect-Tech All2/87 - 88 XJ6 Series III XJS Electrical.pdf Regards John

Hi Great cars you will love it. Things to look for are water in the front footwell and spare wheel compartments which are known issues and can cause expensive problems if the computers in the area get wet. Check everything electrical works. As Clive said brake discs tend to need replacing after 3 yrs or so. If it has Stop/Start make sure it works (should stop engine when you stop after warm up unless air-con, lights etc going full blast). If it does not work battery(ies) might need replacing and they are AGM so around £150 plus for the primary one. Other than that stuff you would do on any car. Check air-con blows cold, beware cheap / worn / damaged tyres, worn wiper blades all of which suggest poor care by previous owner. Good service history should reassure and I would beware of very low mileage diesels at that age as the DPF and EGR do not like a diet of exclusively short journeys. But don't let the above put you off they are great cars and I love mine to bits 🙂 Regards John

Hi Easily had on the Internet. £10 on eBay or Amazon, and if you have Amazon Prime same day delivery if you hurry https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grendle-DIESEL-MISFUEL-DEVICE-RESET/dp/B07RBX6M8S/ Under £5 if you try aliexpress but that takes weeks. 🙂 John

...and the 2.2D is either 200bhp or 163bhp.

Hi Julie https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/c2d20230-snow-sock-kit.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9pOeouv48gIVyu3tCh0zGQq_EAQYASABEgIWHPD_BwE Much easier to fit than chains and hopefully would get you out of trouble. 🙂 John

Hi I use the Bridgestone Weather Control A005 all seasons (all 4 corners) and am very impressed with the performance so far (A rated for rain) but not had any thick snow to test them in yet. I also have 4 Jaguar snow socks for the next "Beast from the East" but they are still in the wrapping and have never actually needed them in the 3 years I have had the car! John

..... but only if they were originally fitted 😞 Mine does not have them. John

Hi Misfueling device has been triggered. There is a yellow plastic tool on top of the battery to reset it. Basically push it down the filler and lift Look down the filler and you will see a bright yellow flap with a symbol of a manual on it. Instructions are in the handbook or just google it as there are good videos on youtube. Land Rover has the same system. Regards John

Hi My starting point would be to read the DTC codes as without them you really are guessing. John

Hi Bill Was the battery changed in an attempt to solve these problems? If so it is possible that the previous battery allowed one or more low voltage events which triggered the faults, effectively corrupting a bit of the software which you are now living with the consequences of. Bottom line is you need to get the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) read and cleared. If it was a problem battery that may well sort it. However I would guess the most likely culprit to be an ABS wheel sensor. In order for the TCM (transmission control module) to control the gearbox it requires inputs from a range of other systems sensors, such as the ABS system which tells it how fast each wheel is turning. All of the sensors are used by multiple sytems and a fault in a sensor will throw a warning in all of the dependant systems down the line. My advice is to get the codes read as this should at the very least point you in the right direction Let us know how you get on. Regards John

Hi Personally I would not entertain changing the system. (see what I did there!). The electronics on these cars are very interconnected and I would be frightened to death of bricking the car. As others have said a much safer option is to look at using access via aux sockets or even one of those FM tramsmitters you could attach to your phones headphone socket . John

...at least you did only claim to be "notionally capable"! As Eric Morecambe might have put it, The bulbs were all there, but not Necessarily in the right order! 🤣

Don't forget the air filter. If it was a main service the air filter should have been changed at which point something could have been dropped into the air intake. Anything solid could easily damage a turbo... Perhaps require they give you the damaged turbo as condition of repair which would allow you to have it examined for the cause of damage. Good luck John