Big John

Hi IMHO the sportbrake is even more handsome than the saloon. Also I prefer the interior of the x250. It just feels a little more special. From personal experience I can recommend the warranty4life from Motorparks. Basically covers pretty well everything including electrics until car is 10yrs old or aver 100k miles. Only exclusions are standard for all warranties such as water ingress, bulbs, hinges etc. Only condition is you keep a service contract with the dealer which is not unreasonable price. https://www.motorparks.co.uk/warranty-4-life John

Hi Ideally you need the codes reading with a dedicated scanner as there will be another couple of digits after P00BD which would help identify the problem. If it is P00BD-67 possible causes are: Boost air solenoid stuck open mono turbo mode Turbine intake solenoid leakage when closed Turbine intake solenoid stuck open mono turbo mode Intake system high pressure bank 2 in mono turbo mode P00BD-00 possible causes are: Air leak at air intake system A Harness failure - Mass air flow sensor circuit short circuit to power Mass air flow sensor failure P00BD-07 possible causes are: Boost air solenoid stuck open mono turbo mode Turbine intake solenoidleakage when closed Turbine intake solenoid stuck open Intake air system, blocked low pressure air intake. Good luck John

Hi Frank and welcome My guess would be that the low voltage caused by your alternator failure has corrupted the software in one or more modules. That is not as catastrophic as it sounds 🙂. Basically there are multiple computers or modules which all talk to each other to get the car to work. Just like a PC or phone sometimes the "system" need resetting. On a computer just restartting is often enough. In these cars you need a little more help, either with the Jaguar main dealer diagnostic tools or an independant with the right kit (Autologic systems seem to be the best). Hopefully it is just a case of hooking up the diagnostics which will then look for errors and repair these by overwritting the corrupt software in effected modules with a new copy. (My understanding is that the entire software code for your car is stored in 3 copies within the car). There is also a chance of course that the alternator failure may have physically damaged a module(s) in which case they need replacing and the car needs telling about this to get everything to work. As an example my battery went flat in the first lockdown. When the RAC got it going everything was fine but both rear doors were permenantly locked and the rear windows did not work. All sorted by the diagnostic kit at the supplying dealer (not Jag but under warranty) with no need for new modules. Hope that helps. John

Hi I agree with David and have the same set-up in mt XF Sportbrake. The CTEK stays in the boot along with the comfort lead which sits in the boot space permentantly attached to the battery. Just plug the charger into the comfort socket, plug in the charger to my extension socket and close the tailgate on the cable. I also use the CTEK battery sense which is left connected to the battery and then talks to the app on my phone by bluetooth so I always know battery state of charge and voltage. Very reassuring but perhaps a bit OCD 🙂 John

Personally I use the stop/start as reassurance that battery is OK. Simple enough to disable each journey once you know it is working. On the lights it is a simple fix which I still have not got around to as it only happens on mine in direct sunlight on hot days. Jag Technical fix is attached and there are lots of youtube videos showing how to do it .Interior Light Repair Bulletin.pdf

Hi As Paul says, if you look after it you will love it 🙂 IMHO that sounds a bit pricey. Have you checked out the used approved Jaguars? eg https://www.marshall.co.uk/jaguar/used-cars/12848310-jaguar-xf-2.2d-200-portfolio-4dr-auto/ Also take care with the "S". I think it should refer to the 300BHP version of the V6 but there are also "sport" versions such as mine which is actually bodykit (basically a different nose and sills) which looks nicer but is not the V6 "S". Personally the 2.2 200bhp works really well and is cheaper to maintain as only one EGR, manifold etc. Whichever you get I am sure you will love it as long as you maintain it

They are valves to allow the excess air pressure inside the car to be released when you shut the boot. As you close the boot it tends to push air inside the vehicle raising the pressure and tending to prevent the boot fully closing. 🙂

Hi Pure styling (IMHO). Only theoretical performance boost would be by increasing engine bay cooling by extracting heated air and thus increasing charge density. Only problem with that is that the panel behind them only has holes for fixing the air vent 😞 John

Hi My car had this fixed before I bought it. Repair bill on mine was over £1K. I would advise taking it to a Jag specialist to replace the seal, having emptied the swimming pool in the boot. It is a well documented issue (just search on here) and any Jag Indy will be able to sort it. The problem is the computer modules in the spare wheel compartment getting water damaged. Hopefully you have caught yours in time and they just got splashed and will dry out. Once repaired it should be fine, but I keep several cloth bags of silica gel in mine now "just in case" but has been bone dry in my 3 years ownership. Fingers crossed for you. John

Hi Jon According to the workshop manual looks to be either the camera connector (or wiring) or a faulty camera. Regards John

Hi Graham Are we talking about an external leak which is dripping on the floor or coolant level dropping with no obvious source? If advised at MOT I assume it is an external leak. If that is the case it is hard to imagine what would make it irrepairable. The system is a reservoir, hoses / expansion tank, radiator, pump etc. Only thing that would make me consider scrapping an otherwise good car (particulalry if it is only an MOT advisory) would be heater matrix which can be expensive in labour to replace due to its access problems. Have you tried some radweld or other sealant? John

My favourite approach is to get tooth floss between the badge and bodywork (best on hot day or after hair dryer treatment to soften glue) and gently slice through the glue, Give yourself plenty of floss on both sides to get hold of. Had a bad experience once with prying off which can take the paint with it 😞 John

Hi John Don't think it is installed on all models. On mine that button rejects or ends phone calls. Still love the car though 🙂 Regards John

Hi If the Stop/Start is working the Battery is probably fine as the computers only engage the system when they are 100% certain there is enough energy to restart. Only other suggestion would be a poor connection on the battery or earth which has caused a momentary drop in voltage to upset the software. Other than that it could be a real fault in one of the modules. My next port of call would be a Jag dealer or Indie specialist for a diagnostic. Good luck John

Hi KP and welcome. You certainly seem to have covered the usual cause of such problems with a CTek. However if the car is still on its first, or even its second battery it could be the battery is the source of the problem if it is starting to fade. If voltage drops then the various computers can have their software corrupted and the central locking / alarm seems especially sensitive to this. If this is the case you will probably need either a Jag Dealer / Specialist or a Garage with the AutoLogic system (and the knowledge of how to use it) to correct the issue . Have you checked the actual voltage at rest and during start up? Does the Stop/Start work? How old is the Battery? It is an AGM? Regards John

Hi Brian Welcome to the club. First port of call with warning lights in the XF is the battery. These cars (as with all modern luxury cars) are a couple of dozen computers all chatting over several networks with a wheel at each corner. If the battery gets even slightly low it can trigger all sorts of random errors. Given we are still in a pandemic I imagine your driving has been limited to a fewer long runs so it could well be that the battery is a bit tired. It is also quite possible your car is still on its original battery and in need or replacement. If you don't have a voltmeter a little cigarette lighter LED voltmeter is around £10 from eBay and a good place to start. If you can either charge the battery using a good maintainer (Don't just take the battery out to charge it can cause all sorts of issues) or take it for a long run with minimal use of accessories. Hopefully this will sort it but even if it does you may need to clear the fault codes. If not you will need to get the fault codes from either a Jag dealer or a Jag specialist to look for any "real" fault. Not long after I got mine 2 years ago I got a faulty air suspension warning after I had been sat waiting at a railway car park playing with the toys. After a run problem cleared. Fingers crossed John

Hi Peter That is fine because there was an event that made you stop and check, then proceed at slow speed to get home. The problem when used without TPMS is where it is a slow puncture and you come to need high speed braking and/or steering response only to find the tyre is actually deflated! In that scenario I am pretty sure the insurance would be an issue as you had modified the car from standard.... If RFT are not specified in your handbook as a fitment my advice would be do not fit them. Kind regards John

Hi. My understanding is that you should NOT use RFT unless you have a car with Tyre Pressure Monitoring (and the correct rims) as it is not obvious when you have a puncture and can therefore be dangerous if you continue to drive at speed with no tyre pressure. Regards John

Hi Darrell No need for a code. Mine is 2013 and checked direct with Jaguar when I got it. Kind regards John

Hi You should always replace an AGM with an AGM. They are a very different design to the standard (including Calcium) wet cell. The main difference is their ability to recover from deep discharge which is what you get with stop/start use. In addition the cars charging system is designed for the difference so if you use the wrong sort you may well get a premature failure of the new battery if it is not an AGM. https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm John

Hi Basically white smoke is normally steam, so first look at cylinder head gasket or cracked block. Any sign of oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil (looks milky)? John

Hi James Only useful thing I can add is here: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/2010XFRWorkshop.pdf which is a really big file to dowload. Other possible sources that may help are here http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXFElectricalOBDIICodes.htm and here: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Battery and Charging System.pdf When you've looked at some of these manuals you will see just how many sources of the problem there could be. I would certainly need a garage to sort it 😞 Really hope you get it sorted. John

Hi James. I am assuming that the problem now is the warning message. Have you watched the voltage with the engine running? A real problem with charging should flatten the battery pretty quickly. My gut feeling is that you have a software issue and basically it needs a Ctrl+Alt+Delete to clear the error message. To do this you either need the proper Jaguar computer or a garage with the Autologic system (and the know-how to use it properly). If it was me I would bite the bullet and get a diagnostic from a Jag dealer. I had an issue with my parking sensors / camera and have a really good warranty from the non-jag vendor. They could not sort it (replaced the sensor their computer said, and it still didn't work). So I took it to Inchcape Jaguar in Preston after agreeing a diagnostic at a cost of £100 +Vat. which I felt was no where near as scarry as I expected. They diagnosed front bumper wiring loom and replaced it (not covered by warranty) for less than £300 inc VAT. The genuine loom was £48 inc VAT when used ones are on eBay for £100 so maybe worth biting the bullet. If it is just software issue it might get sorted within the hour they charge for a diagnostic assessment. Good Luck John

Hi James Just a thought but is the new battery an AGM? If previous one was a wet-cell that would explain its premature failure. John

Hi James When you say you have put a meter on the terminals are you just measuring voltage at the terminals of the secondary and main batteries with the engine running? Secondary battery is normally not connected to the charging circuit except when charging so you are probably just measuring the secondary battery resting voltage. If the main battery voltage shows as 12.2v when engine running but then slowly rises after you turn off and lock the car the computer is almost certainly running down the battery doing a self calibration. When it gets to 75% of capacity it will then fully recharge the battery. This behaviour caused me a few days of panic before I found the info on the web. My hope would be that is where you are but you probably need to pull the fault codes to be sure. The computers hate low voltage so hopefully the codes need clearing and possible some modules just need a reset. Fingers crossed John