JOE-DOT-COM

Hi I did mine a while ago and it can all be done online within a few days I bought mine off dvla, you get the certificate through in a few days and they include the transfer then you go online and swap it over, it automatically does the v5 log book, which comes through a few days later, your mot is done and tax, pop your plates on and job done got my plates online and they arrived together, all done within 3 days save your old plates, because if you transfer your plate, the old number plate usually goes back cheers Joe

HI At the moment She's all wrapped up for winter, In its bubble Next time I start her up will take some pictures, they do look much better, more up to date cheers Joe

Hi Unfortunately if there the sames as the s-type, its not that simple, new clocks will need programing, to get them working and might even immobilize the car, as its part of the security system it would be easier to repair cheers Joe

hi I dont think its too hard, remove the wood trim, and few screws and the clocks are out just dont switch the ignition on without the clocks back in eml is not a mot fail, but airbag one and abs one is, if they are not working if yo look on youtube ther will be a clip of how to remove clocks look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g20GOhVAoc cheers Joe

Hi This is a Dodgy dealer trick, pop the bulb and hey presto no faults But on the s-types its a led, not sure about the x-type, but its most probably the same the led is easily removed also, the light should light up and then go out, same as with the others, like airbags, abs, these are also usually checked on a mot you might have to remove the clock/dash to be sure looking at dashes on ebay, there no bulbs at rear, so there led's and its just a few clips to them apart, so at a guess, they have popped the led off the board cheers Joe

HI Look under that foam, it might be taped over top plug is the fibre optic, bottom plug is wiring the connector is only small the fibre optic d2b is a loop, so basicically you have to extend the loop to include the multichanger cheers joe

Hi hard to say from that picture look more towards the rear, more towards the rear light the connectors are tapped up some times with a foam tape, to stop them rattling have you a wider pic of that whole side cheers joe

Hi I don't mind, it just seems strange why some people would ask the same questions, on different forums, when they get reply's you generally get the same answers, its fair enough if you don't get any reply's for your questions, then try else where but I've noticed it a lot, I flick through a lot of forums, at least 4 jaguar ones and many others, as I own a few cars and a few motorbikes and some do ask the same questions on as many forums as they can, in the hope to get instant answers and help but sometimes people get fed up of answering the same questions, because they too, browse a few forums and see what questions are being asked, some forums have stickies at the top of each sections, where common questions are kept, so they don't have to repeat them selves again but you'll find 90% of the questions people ask have all ready been answered and if you use the search bar at the top of the page, you can find the answers to most questions instantly, as it will of been asked many times before cheers Joe

Hi You have all ready asked this question on the other jaguar forum, actually its the same word for word same reply http://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=97573 cheers joe

HI Ok find me any other manufacturers that have them in the uk 95% of manufacturers in the uk dont have them even x-types, look on ebay most x-types dont have them I've only ever seen them on jaguars cheers Joe

Hi I like it !!, I'm going to do mine in summer and even have a go at making the marker reflectors in clear in summer got all the stuff ready, just got make the mould, Had a go at making some obsolete plastic gears last year, they came out a treat will let you know how i go on, cheers Joe

hi you need to plug in and see what obd codes are there, when the fault happens to know really it could be one of many things, but with it clearing, it might be something simple cheers Joe

Hi looking at the code it says circuits, so might relate to both sides cheers joe

Hi The wiring should be all ready there there hit and miss, some work straight away and some need setting up with SDD software you might need a different d2b optical lead, but there usually is a spare d2d lead, with a link lead in cheers Joe

Hi looks like there's no adjustment at the gearbox, its at the j-gate It could be some kind of switch inside the j-gate when you put into drive, does the "D" letter light up on the j-gate if not it might j-gate that need to be looked at cheers Joe

Hi There a cable on the j-gate that goes to the gearbox it might just want adjusting, by moveing it over to 4th and back, might just move in to position, could be just off position cheers joe

hi its the 3.0-litre V6 diesel AJ-V6D Gen III engine and it does have cam belts I'd get the relpaced its not the mileage, like you say, its the age cheers Joe

hi it only lists the 3.0 engine above and I think thats a petrol will have a look cheers Joe

Hi the only 2010 3.0 XF engine I can find on autodata has no timing belts It has timing chains, so they wont be due for years yet with that mileage cheers Joe

hi what engine does your car have cheers Joe

Hi Mark I don't think the numbers have to match exact there revision numbers, as they update them the letters and number go up at a guess the xw4t will be a earlier revision and the 2w4t will be a later revision of yours they usually need programing if there new, but if the car its comes off has the same spec as yours, it might work straight away try dennis on here for parts "the jag den" he might have one also have you checked the wires in the door shut, they do snap there cheers joe

Hi Paul I used AWJ Jaguar but there also XJK who are also near me AWJ http://www.awjautomotive.co.uk/index.php?p=home XJK http://www.xjkltd.co.uk/ Cheers Joe

Hi peter Battery is all ways a possible on the s-type, its seems to give the most problems on the s-type and generates a range of fault codes being displayed Its especially a problem on Diesels, as diesels suck so much out of the battery on startup, due to glow plug heaters and starting current being so much higher than a petrol, even though the Diesel's have the largest alternators fitted to the s-types It worth checking your battery, best time to check your battery is after its stood overnight, if its on its way out, they loose there charge more rapid and a good battery will hold for much longer, Ideally it should be over 12.5V and if its below 12v then is due for replacement, with the engine running you should at least have 14V up to 14.5V, also the s-type seems to have problems with certain faults which cause loads/leakage and cause the battery to discharge more rapidly, like a interior light left on or the flap on the ignition lock, when it sticks, it stops the car going into a sleep mode and causes various parts of the car to stay powered up, causing a excessive drain on the battery. If your handy with a multimeter, you could connect it inline with the battery and measure the current its taking, which should be quite low, not sure of exact figures as I've never had to do it with a s-type, on old cars it use to be the digital clock and the stereo memory, which would be next to nothing, but on the s-type, its every module, so its going to be a bit more, but for example if you put your meter inline and you got 0.35 Amp, 350 Milli Amps, if you have a 90Ah battery its 90/0.35=257 hours, so in 257 hours the battery would be completely flat, so 0.5A drain would be 90/.5=180 hours and 1A drain will be 90/1=90 hours, so you can see how battery drain effect the battery life, that's a new good battery, a old tired battery will be much reduced cheers Joe

Hi Jon Not sure myself but I Have been looking my self at them I know early ones suffered with corrosion and early 4.0 engines had problems with nicasil bores and timing chains, but the 4.2 cured all the problems found this have a look here http://www.eapj.com/XK-R buyers guide.pdf cheers Joe

Hi I did mine last year, Just for peace of mind, bought the kit off ebay, you get the oil zf lifeguard 6, sump, which is the filter, new sump pins, later pins have larger heads, mechatronics sleeve, updated as early ones were prone to leaking, there's a procedure you have to follow, which is critical, when your ready let me know and I can post it up There's a video on YouTube here https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MAMseFY8GpY My kit cost me 192 pounds, but they were all genuine parts, you can get cheaper parts, but I would not recommend it on mine as it's a S-type R and the gearbox gets lots of powers through it, jaguar used genuine zf parts, so do did I. Also if you get this done at a main dealer, they reset the adaptations, which basically clears the gearbox memory, so you learn it how to drive again, it usually makes it drive better and they update the software if needed, I paid a local jaguar indy to do the reset and update, they charged me 80 pounds for it Cheers Joe