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JOE-DOT-COM

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Everything posted by JOE-DOT-COM

  1. Hi David Ive had this before, its a damp moldy smell if you look on ebay, for air con cleaner, you can buy a spray that cleans and kills the smell, I used one on my mitsubishi and it did the trick you basically put you heater on cold and full fan speed, its best to remove the pollen filter and spray it in there, it sucks the spray in and and cleans the aircon evaporator, thats the little radiator that get ice cold and all the moisture in the air, condenses on, this is where the water comes from when you turn your car off and you get that little pool of water, this moisture can go moldy and this is what causes the smell there under a tenner usually cheers joe
  2. Earlier ones were narrower, but the pipe is the same size, same as early s-type r aswell, but they have a additional flap that open on the front of the airbox under full power
  3. HI post a pic up I don't think there enough clearance on a s-type r to get one to fit but the s-type r has a brace fitted at the rear, when you fold the seats down, you cant access the boot, there just the ski hatch hole, the usuall big hole is braced with a large plate the only opening is the ski hatch cheers joe
  4. Hi Try some local locksmiths near you I have one near me, longton locks, they will cut the key and clone the transponder and program the remote the keys have been out years standard ford ones if you buy a second hand remote it works out even cheaper cheers joe
  5. Hi Ash I would say the engine swap is going to be straight forward the problem you will have is getting everything talking to each other, you will need software like mongoose, to program engine ecu, to your car a donor car would be best option and can be picked up quite cheap, with a good engine/gearbox, swap engine and gearbox, swap ecu, control modules and transponders in keys and it should run, but you might also end up with mileage from donor car, as i'm sure it stored on engine ecu seems like a lot of work, might be better just to buy a good 4.2 and upgrade cheers joe
  6. Hi Jim It could be one of many things have you plugged in to see if there any fault codes stored on the engine management I take it the supercharger is rotating and belts are ok, no supercharger and you will lose over 100 hp I've known cats to get blocked or collapse and they make you lose lots of power, good cats on these are restrictive, bad ones make a massive loss other option see if there are any rolling roads near you, with mapping facilities, they would be able to tell you, what its producing and exactly what up with it, with the data they get off the car and is most probably one of the cheapest options, you usually pay by the hour and an hour would be enough to find out what the cause is cheers joe
  7. hi Russ avoid cone filters in the engine bay, as it sucks hot air from the engine bay and you will actually lose power you need a cold feed from the front of the car to gain any performance the S-type R air box is a good air box, it sucks air from the front, behind the grill and when you put your foot all the way down there is a extra flap at the front of the airbox that opens for additional airflow into the air box jon, you want one of those induction pipes, there suppose to breath better and you get more supercharger whine, which sounds good S-type R air box also ford focus RS use the same air filter as the s-type R, so K&N panel filters, easy fit, are reasonably cheap pic of my induction pipe on my STR cheers joe also s-type r air goes in at the front where red arrow is
  8. HI Paul found this on another forum
  9. Hi Jon I'd be tempted to change the expansion tank cap there usually a little breather valve built into the cap, so when the system cools, it can suck air back into the expansion tank looking at your hoses how they have collapsed, there should only ever be pressure in there and when the system cools the cap is suppose to let air into the expansion tank to stop a vacuum being created and causing hoses to collapse might be worth swapping the cap cheers joe
  10. Hi Craig my s-type R , seems to get hot, the v8's produce some heat, but the temp gauge allways sits at halfway don't know about the v12's, but as long as the temp gauge looks good it should be ok hopefully someone with a v12 xjs, will join and let you know what normal temp is I'd say the fans coming on in short bursts is a good sign, its normal for fans to kick in after engine has stopped, as cooling stops, engine heat builds a bit and as the fan only runs for a short while, must mean its not too hot post some pics up of your car cheers joe
  11. Hi paul welcome to the club Ive had a few alfa's in the past, what alfa's have you had paul I enjoyed all my alfa's and I enjoy my Jaguar s-type R, much more refined and reliable cheers Joe
  12. HI PAUL I'd be interested in this as far as i can see, you would need forward alert switch adaptive switches steering wheel front radar sensor control unit abs unit/ possible servo/master cylinder a donor car would be ideal, and then setting up on IDS/SDD have you seen a donor car paul cheers joe
  13. hi Graham I fitted DRL to my s-type r and I think they make the car much more visable I converted the lower fogs to drl and fog I also converted the indicators to DRL aswell you dont usually have to remove the bumper, just the lower bumper undertray usually to get to them have a look here at the ones i fitted http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/13939-facelift-fog-light-removal/#comment-41215 http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/13570-fitted-led-drl-indicators-today-s-type/#comment-39313 cheers Joe
  14. HI Is all I can say is don't rush into buying one I waited for the right one and eventually I found it I waited and ended up traveling a bit, but got myself a really nice 2004, STR, with full jaguar service history and low miles covered just over 30k and looks like it only came out when it was sunny, as the body work and sill are like new I prefer pre face lift STR's, I just like the look better, I think they were built slightly better, had better brakes and had more equipment fitted cheers Joe
  15. Hi I would be interested in the idea, but its too far for me really, over 3 1/2 hours away and its too expensive for me I have donnington park near me and its quite a bit cheaper there for track days trouble as well is if you book the day, you cant guarantee the weather cheers Joe
  16. Hi Jon What made you go for the EBC Yellow stuff I'm thinking of changing all my pads, but not sure what for, the brakes work perfect on the car, I'm just fed up of cleaning the wheels, after one day the wheels are covered in dust, I took them out to check them and there jaguar pads cheers Joe
  17. hi when you changed the filter did you fill the filter and both lines with diesel if you get a air lock it wont start when you take it off, first fill one line, then put the filter on, fill the filter with diesel, fill the other line and clip it on if it starts and cuts out repeat the above, don't keep cranking the car, because if the injector pump runs too long without diesel, it can damage it cheers joe
  18. hi if its still running then it cant be a bad one could be just a split hose, have a good feel round them for splits, usually the bottom edge, oil in the hoses make them go soft there and pop and you usually get a gushing sound when a hose splits on a turbo car, on boost, try not to get it to boost if your still using the car, as the cars turbo uses pressure in the inlet manifold usually to control boost and the waste gate and because if you have a split hose, you actually never get any pressure so the turbo will spin faster than normal to try to make boost and could destroy itself, turbo's spin from the 40000 to 100000 rpm usually and with a split hose these rpms can double and damage themselves if you cant find it the old fashion way feeley feeley, then in the past ive used dampstart, let it idle and spray it around the hoses, when you get near the split hose, the dampstart will make the revs raise, this works on petrol and diesels cars cheers joe
  19. Hi Paul this is a easy one, remove the grey or white bit from inside the connector, top picture, hard to tell color from pic, terminal screwdriver just flick it out then under that, under each terminal, there a little square slot, in there a little plastic clip/catch that holds the terminal in you want a bit on thin wire about 1mm, paper clip will do, with the end slightly flat, slide it in and move the clip away from the terminal and pull the wire out the white/grey bit sits under the clip and is like a lock, so the clips cant be unlocked and the wire fall out cheers joe
  20. hi paul I've used a vacuum hand pump for years, I have a mityvac but copies are available for less than £15 now there great your can bleed brakes and clutch, one man, no need for anybody to press the brake pedal they work especially well on motorcycles as the master cylinder move so little fluid it can take forever to bleed them cheers joe
  21. hi also are you sure the servo is good there dual circuits, and if one fails the second set of seals inside the master cylinder is suppose to work, which is usually with a very low pedal position its either got air in or you might have a faulty servo, was it new or used cheers Joe
  22. Hi Brian yes its got the staggered zeus wheels, 275 35 18 rear and 245 40 18 front I got one of the fronts with 245 40 18 matching the tyres on the car it will fit both front or back and will still look descent and good traction compared to razor blade they call a space saver, there no way you could do any distance on that the front zeus fits in the boot well perfect as well The rear wheel I think wont fit the front as its way too wide and it definately would not fit in the boot cheers Joe
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