JOE-DOT-COM

Hi, not sure, never really noticed, not sure how it changes, the "supporter tag" cheers Joe

Hi Have a look on euro car parts as well, see if they sell the same oil and wait for a offer code, they have offer codes regular and can get 30% off there worth keeping an eye on for offers cheers Joe

Hi Garry Diesels are generally better if your doing more millage and with DPF filters now days they need regular runs or to be driven sportily to keep that DPF free, but there more and more popular these days, as people see the mpg's they offer and lot of folks looking after the pennies have them, If your one who does low miles, like your commute, 5 miles, a diesel wont even warm up, you wont even put back in the battery what you took out of it, starting it. personally I'd go with a Petrol, but the diesel will feel faster, more torque from the diesel, also if your buying a diesel, make sure it has the DPF still fitted, a lot of diesels in the past few years have had the dpf's removed and mapped out, which was great, but from may 2017, all diesels that left the factory with a dpf will be tested at mot time to check that the dpf actually works. I'd test drive both and see which you like most and take it from there. there's lot of folk on here with diesel and some must use them just for local miles, hopefully they will tell us what there like to live with cheers Joe

hi I'd check that 75w90 is the right oil, that quite a thick oil checked on autodata and it does recomend that 75w90 for it I used it once in my other car and it made gear changes very stiff when cold, ended up using castrol syntrans 75w80 in the end, which made it very smooth hot and cold the 75w140 is correct for the diff, but on my S-type R, there's no drain plug, "sealed for life", I had to suck the old oil out and then replace it cheers Joe

Hi what model of car do you have, I'm sure only the HID headlights do the sweep up and down on ignition on, none of the other headlights do, halogen light are not self leveling, there's a adjuster on the right hand side of the dash that lowers them as you put more passenger and load in the car if they are self leveling and they don't do the up and down sweep on ignition, then they have a fault, which can be read with a jaguar code reader, its usually front or rear leveling sensor also all headlights are adjustable and the rear of the headlight, with a allen key if i remember right, self leveling or not its a common fault for the adjusters to break on s-type and x-type, the adjusters just go weak and break, easiest way to tell is remove the cover off the rear of the headlight on the high beam, inner ones, hold the bulb holder and push and pull gently, if they don't move there ok, if there all loose then the adjuster have broke adjusters are available off ebay and can be replaced by taking the headlight apart, but the front bumper has to be removed to remove the headlights, I did mine last year took me 3 hours from start to finish cheers joe

Hi It looks like when you press the "SUBMIT" nothing happens, but every time you press it, it posts a duplicate post, the page is not refreshing on its own I recommend till its sorted, that when you write a post, you press "SUBMIT REPLY" once, then if you right click on the page and press "REFRESH", the page will reload with your new post on works for me cheers Joe

Hi Peter Shame we did not have the facility to delete our own posts, you can on every other forum?? Well only the person who created the post, can delete it It would save a lot of hassle cheers Joe

hi have a look on ebay link here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X-TYPE-BELIZE-ALLOY-WHEEL-17-REFURBISHED-JAGUAR-FREE-DELIVERY-/252659051892?fits=Car+Make%3AJaguar&hash=item3ad3a72d74:g:AEsAAOxygPtS3PHG cheers joe

posted twice for some reason admin please delete this

Hi If you look on ebay for jaguar bbs wheel valves and valve adapters theres loads on there basically the valve bolts inside the wheel, then there a cap to give it a flush look and protect it to inflate it you remove the cap and screw in a adapter and inflate as normal then remove the adapter and refit the cap cheers Joe some pics off ebay adapter adapter valve caps valves

hi not got a XF diesel, but I do know like most modern diesels, they don't like to potter around town they do like the revs raised, at regular intervals, to get the DPF hot and which in turn keeps it clear motorways are ideal to achieve this, but you don't have to go zooming around every where, you just need to get the revs raised, for short periods, at regular intervals, will help, if not cure it cheers joe

Hi are they genuine discs or copies cheers joe

Hi Looks very nice and Jaguar history is great But the only thing I can recommend is have a look behind those plastic sill covers, they can hide a nightmare. this was the first thing i checked when I bought my S-type cheers joe

Hi Just had a quick look on Autodata there's two timing belts on the tdv6 2.7 and it says 3.8 hours to do the job, one belt for timing ( if timing belt fails pistons and valves will clash, causing engine damage), other belt is high pressure fuel pump ( if this belt fails no engine damage ) water pump is not driven by the cambelt, its driven by the aux belt, so could be done at a later date, but will be cheaper to replace the water pump now, as most of the stuff has all ready been removed so you could look at the prices of the parts, plus 4 hours labour, for a idea on prices. some one else on here should give you a better price idea jaguar are quoting at £375 for cambelt on a s-type and will be cheaper at a local indy http://www.jaguar.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance/fixed-price-servicing.html cheers joe

Hi Colin Is your car petrol or diesel cheers joe

Hi If your taking about the type that plug into the diagnostic socket, then don't bother they don't do anything, there just a gimmick To get any proper and safe upgrade in power, then it has to be mapped and checked on a rolling road you can get plug in units for diesels, but they don't plug the diagnostics obd socket, they plug in inline with the ecu and I'm not sure if there available for jaguar diesels mapping and rolling road is the on safe way to go cheers Joe

hi how bad are they, post some pics up you do see them on ebay sometimes cheers joe

Hi Our Jaguars use 5w30, WSS-M2C913-B spec, is there any of that available??????

Hi Could be, bit a damp in the right place, can give you a right nightmare cheers Joe

Hi Tim Could be one of many thing really, Have you checked for any fault codes? If I were mine, I'd start with a new set of spark plugs, but also it could be a coil pack if you change the plugs, they should be a nice light brown/tan color, if you get one plug that's black/sooty that could be the problem one if plugs don't cure it and you are getting a odd colored plug compared to the others, swap the coil pack with another cylinder and take it for a run and see if the dirty plug shifts to the new position also check the coil pack connectors for corrosion, this can also cause this cheers Joe

hi I'd have a quick look first, just in case its a hose is your one of these https://www.britishparts.co.uk/t/jaguar/jaguar-s-type/cooling-heating cheers joe

hi Barrie post some pics up, cheers Joe

HI looking at the info below, it could be a faulty cylinder head temp sensor or cooling fan controller looks like its controlled from the engine ecu, can't see this failing, but temp sensor is possible or fan controller also here a manual might help http://www.the-colliers.net/docs/public/guides & manuals/Jaguar Workshop Manual X-Type 2001-2009.pdf hope this helps cheers joe

hi hubs here http://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentviewarticle.asp?article=684

Hi these are bolt on have a look here http://www.mwsint.com/custom/FitmentGuide/DisplayEntry.asp?category=87&carId=FG000009&make=JA&CarYear= something like these