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Tesla (coil)

Hi all..anyone got any to sell? best, Kevin

Spark

Sorry for the delay. had family emergency. NO, doesn't turn over but battery is at 12.8 volts. Remember all the codes. just need to know where to start. Thanks

The place it is situated couldn't be worse for maintenance, if it faults it's a towaway followed by considerable cost. Not to mention the garage has to gather all parts before taking the job on so you lose your car for a month. It really is the elephant in the room for the S Type. Doing this means the actuator is protected from spray, freezing temperature, dust etc. Everything is within reach for servicing. Don't get me wrong this method of EPB is very good since the brake is cable actuated and that lowers unsprung mass but my EPB has not been moved since new and it showed. I had difficulty pulling the EPB cable and all the bolts were a rusted lump. All told this cost about £40 and the original actuator has gone back in yet some clown on eBay wants £1250 for a new S Type parkbrake. Need I say more?

Thanks for the sound advice. I will get the battery tested first and if that's not the problem I'll look into the abs sensor. Thanks once again. It's very much appreciated.

Bright

Morning Justin, Very interesting idea, just wondering what motivated you to change the location for the parkbrake?

Here I present my conversion removing the parkbrake from it's location above the differential to the spare wheel tub. The diff has to be dropped a few inches with a special tool T10179 needed for the rear bolts. Given space the parkbrake eases out. The actuator was quite rusted and I had to grind every bolt down. However internally it was all ok with new Allens fitted for reassembly. I chose to extend the loom from the parkbrake and feed it to the original plug under the car, the wires to the parkbrake module are very thin. Making a loom rather than intercepting those wires was the easiest option. The parkbrake bolted to the side of the tub with the cable running out to the original route and being reconnected to the cables as normal. The way the cable actuator operates means that for it to be fitted internally there is about one place for it to go. I wanted to do this for a while and although it did not cost a great amount it was a hard days work I don't mind saying.

Incandescent

In addition to the sounds advice given my Jim above, there is a possibility that you have an ABS sensor failing - not completely failed but on its way out and the problem is exacerbated by damp weather. However, i would also go down the battery checking route to begin with.

Glad to hear you've solved your problems and normal service is resumed! 😉 😄

Glowing

Hello, I’m new to this forum. I have a 1998 Vander Ploss and a 2005 convertible jaguar. The keys were stolen. I have no copy or picture of them to provide to a locksmith to make another key. Can anyone tell me where I could find the T codes for these cars? They are not on the title.

Hi, I have been trying to change my 8" screen for a 10" but I'm struggling to find anyone to help

Thanks for the advice. I will get my battery checked. Hopefully your right. You could have saved me a fortune. Much appreciated.

Hi Jay, in that case it is more than likely that the internal baffles have been dislodged and the solution would be a new rear silencer. N6 JMX

Hi Gary, this sounds very much like a failing battery. On these "modern" cars, the battery load is quite severe and even when shutdown, the background drain can still be high. On a 2017 car, I would suspect that the battery is still the original and, believe it or not, this could well be the source of your dah lighting up with "random" messages. If you have the ability to have the battery drop tested by a qualified auto electrician, that would be my suggested starting point. If indeed the battery is the original - would have a Jaguar sticker on it if it is - then I would bite the bullet and have it changed for a new one. If you can be assured that the battery is good, then the folks on here may be in a position to advise alternative areas of concern such as a worn reluctor ring or abs sensor. Let us know your findings. N6 JMX

Hi my name is Gary Williams, I have a 2017 XF 20D automatic, which I have owned for 6 months. It's a really nice car but 3 times over the last few months I have had warning lights on my dashboard saying no abs, no traction control and I can't change the drive mode. It automatically goes to normal. When I'm stationary in park with the electric handbrake on it gives an audible and visible warning telling me the handbrake is engaged. This only seems to happen when it's raining. But when I next use the car it all disappears, everything back to normal. Is this water getting into the electrics and shorting a sensor or something out or is it something more serious. Thanks

Didn't resolve, it really sounds like that rattle is coming from the muffler box, when i lift the rear exhaust system, the noise completely goes

Hi every one I’ve got some good news the alternator and battery have brought the beast back to life. I would like to thank you all for your help. I’m a happy bunny again

Illumination

2017 FP 2.0 D at 120,000 km knocking sound Car runs fine, no loss of power, brought to JLR Dealer , I told them there is serious engine blow by as I just change the oil , plus the oil turns black like tar after two weeks of changing the oil with their specified and bought from dealership oil …they charged me three hours to diagnose, They said timing chain job needed $13000 CDN I RELUCTANTLY PAID $10,000(Discount given) 10,000 km later, engine stalled on freeway, Had it towed to same dealership, they told me their master technician which was schooled in the UK Will look at it The next day they called me and told me there is no charge for the diagnostics. Our master technician found the problem immediately! The battery and starter cable running from the rear battery on the outside of the car underneath was completely corroded and needs to be changed $2000 I said go ahead One month later, they called me this morning. They told me we changed the cables, but your engine is seized! I said, according to your master technician, he found the problem immediately It was the battery cables? It takes five minutes to check if an engine or motor is seized No, the car is worth $30,000 but they want another $40,000 for a new motor Oil pump failure, they determined This car has a fuel cut off if low oil pressure is detected, therefore would and should have Stalled to avoid catastrophic engine failure. I think a class action is warranted. Basically, when they told me timing chain, it was the oil pump that was making the Noise Montreal Canada

Blackpool

Hi. Sorry for the late reply. Did you manage to sort insurance? Regards, Dan.