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Hi everyone thanks for your reply’s, let’s start from the beginning the first time it happened I opened the car and every thing lit up like normal pressed the brake and pushed the start button, the ignition lights came on like normal but I got a click when the engine should fire like a sticking starter or a flat battery. After some swearing eventually it started. Now when it did it the second time I had no luck in actually getting the car to start so we proceeded to use a booster pack, the booster pack we used is a 1500amp beast that my friend has used to start a wagon before. Now before we used the booster pack the interior lights were working and ignition was coming on like normal and after using the booster everything is now dead. Since getting the car transported home where I could work on the car stress free because originally I was stranded away from home and I had work in a couple of hours. I checked everything in the boot that I could, all the fuses tested fine and all the cables were tight but I found 2 corroded plugs on the rear bcm. I have cleaned the pins and plugs but it has made no difference also the battery that had been fully charged to 14.4v had drained down to 2v whist being still connected to the car for a week and now it won’t take a charge I could only get it too 9.5v last night so I would say it’s goosed. I’m purchasing a new battery and if that doesn’t help a alternator as mine was fitted in 2018 and I have seen so many comments on how these cars eat alternators plus I’ve read a story of another xf acting exactly the same as mine and the alternator had burnt out causing such a draw from the battery that there was nothing left for the rest of the car. Also I’m going to check the front bcm and all the wiring in the drivers wheel arch as I believe there is an earth wire in there. Perhaps a new battery is all it needs and we finally killed the battery with the booster pack I just don’t know, I’m fed up of this car as much as I love it I really wish I never bought it.

Acting

I agree with the principal assertion here that the battery on the vehicle has to be suspect, followed by: 1. A corroded / suspect earth point(s). 2. A failed Starter Motor. I would not try a jump start from a slave vehicle as that may transfer issues from one to the other. Start by fully charging the existing battery using the correct charger such as a Ring Automotive Smart Charger, the version with the LCD screen that indicates the battery status when charging. A battery that can take a charge should be able to be at 90% within 12 hours of connecting up and switching on. REMEMBER you are dealing with an AGM battery so it is vital the chosen charger has that capability. As given earlier, if a "standard" charger has already been used, then the innards of the AGM battery may already be shredded. If you are not confident with battery tests, or indeed don't have access to the correct charger, then remove the battery from the car and hand it to a qualified Auto Electrician to both charge and test. You need to eliminate possible causes in an ordered manner. N6 JMX

Hi Martin, this sounds like a really bad experience and one that I am pretty sure must be quite rare as these engines are generally VERY reliable. I have heard of 300k miles on these engines, without missing a beat, so you have either been very unlucky, or something has gone truly amiss inside the engine. The fact that your car has been taken to "a reliable Jaguar Specialist" would indicate that you have not been using a main dealer for your servicing works, has that always been the case in your possession? You may want to get in touch with Jaguar Cars Customer Services, but I doubt they are going to be very sympathetic, unless you have detailed records of any works carried out, including oil specifications as used at the oil changes, any other work undertaken by you since 2018, etc. A seizure without warning, even a high temperature or a low oil light is mystifying, so not sure what to suggest further, but good luck going forward. N6 JMX

Hi Dave. Wow, you know your stuff. Thanks again for your input. I'll look into your suggestions. Cheers, Graham.

At the risk of preaching to the converted John, that depends whether the battery is ok or not, if it's gone it may hog all the available jump start current. Also depends on whether the "slave" vehicle has a big enough battery to fire up a Jag.

Hi Ross Are you certain that the booster pack you used was fully charged, and powerful enough to start the engine? Re-reading your original post in isolation I would say dodgy battery. A decent starter pack will only require engaging "Boost" if it is unable to detect a voltage in the vehicle battery. To then only do a couple of turns with a fully charged starter pack suggest either the starter pack is not powerful enough (or is itself flat) OR their is a massive short when the starter is engaged. Just because a battery reads over 12v at rest does not mean it is OK. My wifes Skoda failed to start last week. Started fine with my Noco GB50 attached but initial quick test by garage said battery was OK and at 80%. Only when tested again 2 days later did it show as knackered. New battery and now running fine. Is it possible to try a jump start from another car with heavy duty jump cables?

Hi Ross Can we just go back and explore in more detail exactly what happens when you try and start the car? Are the key batteries OK? Does the car show any signs of "waking up" when unlocked? Have you tried starting with the key held over the sensor? Any lights on the dash? Have you tried jump starting from another car / starter pack? etc Regards John

Method

Use some contact cleaner on those pins and also in the plug, remake/disconnect the plug several times then spray the contact cleaner in again and finally remake the connection. Doubtful whether that would prevent starting but i have no tech data on the XF so anything is possible i suppose. I would suggest it's probably capable of preventing things like the hazards and interior lights not working though.

System

Finally got my car home checked all the big fuses first non blown removed the rear bcm and found corrosion on the bottom middle plug. Where do I go from here and would this stop the car from starting

Blown V6 3.0d XF engine 2017. Driving on dual carriageway, speed 75/85 mph. Steering wheel started to vibrate then the dash. Engine didn’t sound normal , then totally lost all power. This was in the space of 20 seconds. No warning lights. Taken to reliable Jag specialist garage. Told the engine has seized. WTF Has been serviced as per service instructions. Anyone encountered this issue ? Anyone Spoken to dealership/Jaguar U.K about this dangerous fault if so what was the outcome ? I’ve had the car since 2018, 1 year old. Always serviced. Oil changed at 46,000, now on 50,000

Binary (197)

If you are sure it is rain water, then it should also come in when you hose / wash the car. Have you confirmed that it only comes in due to rain? Try turning the AC off for a week and see if there is any improvement. Normally, in hot weather with the AC running, you will find a small puddle under the car when parked. Have you seen the puddle recently, or is the driveway dry under the car at all times? Do you have a sunroof? There are also drains from the sunroof surround, but I have no idea where they travel through the car, but down an A-post would seem logical, ending up near the footwell. N6 JMX

When I bought my XJR last December there was no handbook wallet with it and enquiries with JLR confirmed that it was only available as a complete wallet pack which has to be individually ordered from the original publisher via JLR given the VIN number for the car. I'm not even going to say how much it cost 😉and how long it took to actually materialise. In the meantime, the rep who sold me the car managed to locate the original car documentation wallet for me, rendering the new pack of no use to me. Would the brand new pack ( still in original box} be of use to anybody? The car is a 2018 X351 and is the same for all the models apparently.

Crap this is a word game ????

Ten

I'm aware of the problem duckbill involving iirc 06/07 and 09 xk however i have never came across the problem involving the 350 model

010100101

It turns out that the existing Switch already on the car did not require changing, it seems that just a good clean and re grease of the ball joint and cable were all that was required. However as these Switches are now about as common as rocking horse poo and even more expensive I will be carefully wrapping up the refurbished one and stashing it away somewhere safe - just in case !

Help please, wheel nut sheered off above the slip washer any one had the same problem and how to resolve it, as i cant get the wheel off Thanks Bill

Technology

Hi there, I have a manual S type. What oil should i put in the gearbox. At present the gear change isn't smooth. I havent checked the oil level but when i do i will probably change it if thats possible. Are there any additives that will help make the gear changes smoother and reduce noise?

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