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Just my luck, non in stock at present but we will get there, car still driveable just getting a shudder at 50-60. You would think that all the shafts / bearings are the same circumference 2008 - 15 wouldn't you Regards Peter

Thanks Big John, There are several listed which is a great start I have emailed them for the correct fit to order. Interestingly, even the prop shaft repairers say they cannot get hold of the right item themselves. If it eventually proves good, I will pass on the details to those I have asked to do the refurbishment. Jaguar parts dept wont even provide a part number for it and obviously don't sell it as a separate item. Thanks a lot, I will let you know how I get on. Regards Peter

Have you tried here: https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts-catalog/propeller-shaft-bearing-10939/jaguar/xf/xf-j05-cc9

I am in the process of removing the A pillar inside trim on my 2011 XK, left hand drive model. After researching the process to remove the trim it seems that it should simply pop or pry off if necessary. The bottom of the trim seems to be loose but the top absolutely will not release. My car also has the microphone mounted near the top of the trim panel. Is the microphone attached such that it is keeping the trim from releasing? The microphone has two rivets attaching the back to something behind the trim. It looks like I may need to drill out the rivets to release the microphone and the trim. I wonder if anyone has experienced the same problem. Thanks in advance!

You’re welcome, Paul. If you intend to remove the battery then always the negative first.

Thanks again Jim for your helpful advice. By the way, do i remove the neg or pos lead from the battery?

I have been thinking about it and still think the problem is a jolt to a rotating part is setting off a resonance. But that requires sufficient freedom of movement to allow the parts to physically move so if it were the propshaft there should be play in the bearings / their mountings or the rubber / Universal joints themselves. Likewise in the driveshafts but the driveshafts do hve a built in abilty to move vertically at the wheel so possible more likely??? Do let us know how you get on. Good Luck.

It seems that the centre bearing for the prop shaft on the XF model is unavailable even from main dealers, except as part of a full prop shaft which they will happily sell you at Circa £1,303 plus VAT Such items are available for other Jaguars and for most other car models at costs ranging around £40 or so. This seems like extortion on the part of Jaguar (If Jaguar can get them surely someone must be making them, any ideas or leads?)

Prime suspect with these symptoms is the key itself - if you have a spare key, try that before anything else. There is an RF-ID chip inside the key, these can fail at any given moment in time with no warning. If they do, the car will not turn over. Also try locking/unlocking several times in a row with the remote fob.

I know this is and old thread but I hope someone can still answer my query. Does my year 2000 S Type have any form of PATS or immobiliser ? I ask because my car will not start - all the electrics work but the starter does not function - not even a click of the solenoid. The car was left unused for several weeks and the battery discharged itself and I have been advised this could have caused an immobiliser e to function. If so how do I reset it??? Thanks Steve

I was born in Poland hence S100 bring back many memories as it is somehow similar to what I used to see on the road on a daily basis. Although I never owned one, my father used to drive Fiat 125p and later on FSO Polonez Caro which was hell of a clunker. The comparison to the Tacoma narrows bridge seems to be spot on to what I am experiencing! There is a high chance you are right with the propshaft. I will have it checked too and will post the outcome in case anyone else had something similar in the future. Hopefully it will not end up on a whole propshaft replacement...

Finish

Hi Paul, With your car there is no problem with disconnecting the battery as you don’t have the BMS (battery monitoring system) fitted. I have the icarsoft i930 for mine which is perfect for what I want and it will tell you which sensor is at fault. If you go the icarsoft route then make sure you buy from a reputable source and it is Jaguar specific.

Quit

Morning Jim, Thanks for your comment and video, looks like a pretty straight forward task to change those 2 sensors if that's the problem. Can you recommend the brand of code reader i should buy for my model which is a 2006 X150 4.2? Also, is it really neccessary to disconnect the battery? iv'e heard comment that doing that can cause more trouble!

First time I have heard anyone describe a Skoda S100 as lovely to drive 🙂 It was 988cc with a mighty 42bhp! Incredibly tail happy as the rear swing arms simply "tuck under" when cornering, HOWEVER you could fix it with a set of spanners. From your description I would be focusing on prop shaft and particulalry the UJs. Everything else is fixed, even if through rubber bushes, so should not be able to move without it being detectable at rest with a pry bar. If the Propshaft joints have even a little play they could vibrate and resonate like the tacoma narrows bridge (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tacoma_Narrows_Bridge_(1940)) which sounds like what you are experiencing to me. Also that vibration could well have "bent" something to account for your suspension settings. Good luck John

About 90 miles ago (after a 30 mile motorway dash) the red warning light shaped like an engine came on and stayed on , i.e. "engine/transmission emissions issue" . Had a diagnostic this morning ... nox sensor and injector need replacing! But - after being on continuously for 3 days/90 miles the light didn't come on when I started up this afternoon and has stayed off throughout an hours drive ... ??!! Any ideas/similar experience please? Thanks in advance

I can relate. Used to have Seat Ibiza FL2 1.9 SDI 2000, which at some point gave up and the driver side wishbone just turned into dust while driving, luckily at low speed. At least it was a straight forward - no symptoms then one day, whole car just collapsed on one side. Skoda S100 seems like a lovely car to drive, could not imagine it being a beast 😄 What engine was it? The Jag even though I have that issue for a while, don't want to give up (which is a possitive, I guess!) Yes, multiple times and no crabbing spotted. It is more vertical than horizontal. As if the gas in the shocks is gone or if there was a play in the wishbone bushings. Yet all mechanics claim suspension is in good condition. It has to be something clearly not visible at the first glance. As both rear cambers are out of alignment, one mechanic is pointing towards differential or propshaft. Those might be expensive to repair, hence I want to be sure as much as possible before spending even more money. ...and yes, it was scary at first when the whole body started vibrating on the motorway (rear wheels felt like going up and down constantly even though road was smooth) and it felt like sitting in a helicopter with a spinning washing machine at the back. But nobody found an issue, I could not figure it out either so just kept diagnosing it and still commuting to work, I am still alive so... I am just worried about the stress on all the components and trying to figure out what the heck is happening here.

Have a leak coming from lower reservoir tank. This has happened 4 years ago. To buy a new tank isnt expensive but the labour charge is. My question is why do you need this additional tank. Why cant the pipes from expansion tank be enough. Sorry if this is a silly question but im not a mechanic.

.... OK so not just the 20" wheels then 🙂 That sounds like a nightmare. The shaking reminds me of my first car: A Skoda S100 rear engined beast with swing axle rear suspension that tried killing me on several occasions! One of which was due to a worn steering box where there was enough play to allow the front wheels to vibrate from side to side which did feel like the car was shaking itself to pieces. My problem is that yours passed the MOT which should have ruled out any loose parts. Have you had somebody drive behind you to check if there is any crabbing?

Hi John, I bought it already on 20's and everything was fine for two years. As swapping alloys and tyres gave me little to none difference in the ride quality I crossed those two things out of the list, but I will try to get some summer tyres for the 18's or to get someone with 19's and put them in and report back here. All the issues started around 125k miles mark and in that time I remember only thing being reported by the mechanics were front forward lower wishbones so called banana arms which apparently were never replaced by the previous owner. They have not seen any issues with upper wishbones, however now I am thinking about it, I feel like that might be my issue. To clarify: Some time ago I started hearing all the plastic trims inside of the cabin rattling more often. I also observed wobble of the passenger seat from time to time. At some point while commuting to work on M25, whole body was vibrating (when driving on cruise control). That was happening on a daily basis, different parts of the motorway, different speeds as long as it was on constant speed. Remedy was to switch lanes and slow down a bit then speed up and the vibration was gone. It felt for a few seconds like the back of the car is about to blow up, literally 😄 Like a massive subwoofer/washing machine about to explode. That issue lasted for a few months (meanwhile nobody could diagnose it properly) so driving like a lunatic was a temp workaround. Steering wheel is slightly vibrating while on motorway, the faster I go, the more noticeable are the vibrations. Any imperfection in the road or even a small bump feels bumpy - ride is rough. Can feel it through steering wheel, can hear it as the passenger seat wobble and all the plastic trims rattle. Literally feels like car is about to fall to pieces. Please note - there is no issue when driving on a smooth surface, car act normal. I wouldn't say the whole car is wandering. I have a feeling that once I go through small bump, the back of the car keeps vibrating for few seconds then settle... or at least that's the feeling I get. Whatever that is, has to be related to the rear of the car. There are no cracks or leaks on the shocks, though I do believe those were never replaced as most of the suspension. Now, after few months going back and forth with no proper fix, the vibration of whole body while on cruise control seem to be mostly gone by itself (does not happen that often), but the rest of the symptoms remain (steering wheel vibrate (the quicker I go, the more noticeable), bumpy ride, feeling every single road imperfection, plastic trim rattle, passenger seat wobble, back of the car feels more bumpy then front) and ride quality is far from what it was when I bought it. One mechanic thought it is a front passenger wheel hub but that did not solved it. Another blamed tyres and/or alloys, same result. Now another one is suspecting differential or any of the remaining wheel hubs. While I am personally pointing towards 1. Shocks 2. CV Joints 3. Upper wishbones hence I am preparing my wallet to send the car to Jag Spec in Doncaster and ask them to check it all while get the gearbox service, differential service and type B service done. Previous owner was replacing parts when the main dealer told him to. Many parts are sitting there since car came out from factory. Funny enough, the car passed the MOT with no advisories, I already went to few mechanics and nobody see an issue even though it came out poorly on wheel alignment (I am attaching copy of last one that I did). I would like to mantain it and keep it for as long as possible, yet that one is baffling me big time.

Thanks Gents, literally just found the hose I needed at a dealership in Ireland. Managed to find someone with access to Jaguar stock list. Apparently I managed to snag the only one in the UK. I did consider the custom hose route, that was going to be my next move if Jaguar couldn't supply them. All back on the road now.

Thanks, Jim. I haven't seen a function to allow me to have the rear view camera on without reverse being seleected but I will investigate further. The 2016 model doesn't normally suffer from the boot wiring issue of the earlier models but I must admit that the wiring was my initial thought. My local garage are pretty good on electrical issues and they tell me that they have encountered many issues with JLR cameras.

I remember seeing that on show in the Uni many years ago

Resign