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Electronic brake lock up

2007 ST-R 45k miles

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2007 S Type R 45k miles

i had to call out my vehicle recovery service the other day because my electronic brake had locked on and wouldn't release. 
They disconnected the battery, waited 10 minutes and then re calibrated the brake having reconnected the battery.
All was well until I stopped the car and ignition turned off. Brake was locked on again.
what can I do to repair this problem.

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I would say the EPB is faulty or hand brake cables have gone tight, you could live with it, but it will get worse

personally I'd get it fixed properly, its either the EPB, more expensive option ( there's a epicyclic gears inside it, than run dry, not enough grease was put inside from new, then they wear and jam up regular, once worn.

or it going to be the handbrake cables, they go really tight as they get old and corrode, overloading the EPB and causing it not to reach it desired position

hears a link to a clip on how to operate the EPB motor manually https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xebdRYwtjE&utm_source=JaguarOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals

and you dont have to disconnect the battery, no other memory will be lost.

I'd replace the park brake cable first as there reasonably cheap, or at least check them, they should slide nice and smooth, also check the rear brake calipers lever for the handbrake operates smoothly

normal s-types hand brake operates a lever on the main brake caliper, operating the inner pads only, if there not setup correct this can cause EPB faults

s-type R up to 2005 has  two brake calipers at the rear, one solely for EPB and one for footbrake, post 2005 went to budget brakes so handbrake was on single brake caliper

I say budget as pre 2005 R's had four pot brembo's at the rear and a dedicated seperate parking brake caliper, then it also had huge 4 pot brembo's at the front, where post 2005 had single pot, sliding caliper at the rear, with parking brake and single pot, sliding caliper at the front

I removed my EPB when I first had the car, knowing that they can be troublesome and greased it all up and checked the cables were nice and free and mines worked faultlessly for nearly 2 years now.

also if the rubber boots have perished at each end of the cables, they fill with damp and water and this time of year when its frosty, your guaranteed a " EPB FAULT", or excessive rear pad wear and if there frozen, there's no freeing them till they thaw



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Welcome to the club, Robert,

Joe has given you some very good information.

I had problems with that "Parkbrake Fault" on several occasions, usually when it was cold.  I had my mechanic examine the whole operation and he reported a clean bill of health.

Although I have had no problem resetting it, I came to the conclusion that it was occurring when the battery was low on power. and the message from the switch inside the car was not getting there, putting it simply.

A new battery three and half weeks ago, plus a solar powered trickle charger have been installed and even in this cold weather and the car parked outside, it has not happened again.



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Many thanks for responses... as the car is on its original Jaguar badged battery. I will replace it on Payday!

having read several threads, it appears that the battery condition is vital to this car. I've had it since 2009 and it's been faultless apart from the EPB and a randomly flickering airbag light which eventually stays on. Maybe the battery, again or the clock spring contacts in the steering wheel. Let's see what a new battery does?

when I change it, I guess the ignition key should be removed..is that correct?

many thanks again

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Hi Robert,

Always take out the ignition key when doing something electrical

When the battery is starting to fail, unnecessary electrical operation are shut down.  When I first had my car, I found that the heater rear window was not working.  A battery charge solved it!.

When you change the battery, make sure you have your radio code to hand. You will have to reset the windows, clock, volumes on sat nav, radio etc.



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Had this problem when I first got my car except that it locked itself solid as I was driving! ... not particularly nice. Replaced everything with new as that's not an experience I want to repeat!

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Yesterday, I fitted a new correct spec Exide battery hoping to solve the EPB lock up problem.

having fitted it I did the EPB recallibration (in the same way that the Recovery mechanic did so I could drive car home) but this time it will not release to allow me to drive it into my garage and onto my pit so I can check out the relevant mechanics and the EPB motor. Looks like I will have to jack the rear end up (on the gravel....not ideal)

Any thoughts about releasing brake?



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You might find that you need to lower the rear sub-frame to get at the motor. We had to last time I was involved in replacing a motor and cables.

If you find a way to do it without removing the sub-frame PLEASE let me know :)

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