JOE-DOT-COM

Hi Ive has a cracked wheel before, I'd bin it, even welded, it will all ways be a weak spot and if it ever comes apart at speed, would'nt risk it my self S-type's are not the lightest of cars cheers joe

Hi I use castrol magnatec 5w30 A5 fully synthetic has to be A5 to meet jaguar spec WSS-M2C913-B also magnatec 5w30 comes in spec C2, C3, A3, A4 these dont meet the jaguar WSS-M2C913-B spec and are not recomended cheers Joe

Hi Gordon Not heard of this issue on the jaguars before on the ZF 6HP26 auto's seem quite strong, with only problem being poor changes between 1st and 2nd, 2nd to 1st, which is cured by a software update cheers joe

Hi not sure about the x type but on the s type the leaper can only go in one position, due the the hole for fixing underneath, on the s type theres a hole in the bonnet frame, where the leaper is fixed so your hole has to be in the middle of that hole in the frame, or you wont be able to tighten the leaper correct cheers joe

Hi when i did mine, removed the cover, lifted them about 1 inch and unclip them make sure you don't lift them too high as it will mark your bonnet, or even chip the paint off, on the under side edge check you drivers side wiper arm, early ones up to 2004, they bend at the bottom, at the wiper arm rubs the bonnet edge, fetching the paint of and causing a rust patch later arms are modified and better cheers joe

hi i got mine off feabay, there's that many combinations and colors its really hard to drop on one, exactly as you need it, mine had all the switches all there on the board, i just swapped the small panel, with the 3 homelink buttons in it and added the plug in module cheers Joe

Hi Paul the switch is actually there in the over head light but the front facia button is missing I took my overhead light apart a while ago when i added the garage opener board and front buttons when i took it apart all the board buttons are there, I used a donor light just for the button, because i could not find a light the same color it does look like a simple switch and a 12v to the blind it looks very easy to test on the bench, put 12v and earth to the blind, and apply 12v to the other connection to open, remove and it should close

Hi Martyn the headlights can be adjusted seperatly there are adjusters for the dip beam and main beam cheers Joe

hi the other thing you need check is make sure theres no air locks in the system not sure how you check on the 2.5 the caps are designed to vent at a certain pressure cheers joe

Hi Sam sounds like head gasket to me, but you had that tested on what engine is it by the way I would try a compression test, see if all the cylinders have the same compression usually if its not head gasket then its a blockage, radiator or stat stuck, but yours are all new also when you turn engine off do you get any gurgling from engine water system, headgasket sign cheers joe

HI Russ there's a set on ebay at the mo, might be worth making a offer there a bit pricey buy it now, but you can make a offer cheers Joe

Hi Paul you could try running your car at home and wait till the temp gets to 40 to 50 deg and feel the two large radiator pipes, if there warm, with your engine at 40 to 50 deg, then your thermostat is passing/partially stuck open at 40 to 50 deg the thermostat should still be shut and the radiator pipes should be quite cool thermostat stuck partially open can cause the car to take longer to warm up cheers Joe

Hi Russ my S type R has 245 40 18 at the front and 275 35 18 at the rear these are the factory standard on the S type R jaguar recomend Continental contisport contact 3, which are fitted and seem ok so far but if you look on you driver door shut, by the the dash, the recomended sizes, pressure's and tyres are on that label cheers joe

Hi Paul I would say anywhere from 70 to 80 deg would be normal usually most thermostats open at around 75 to 85 deg and fans usually start at 90 deg up but diesels tend not to warm up very well this time of year when its cooler, thats why most diesels have a Aux heater of one form to speed the heating process up Most of the cars i've had, have usually suffered from a failed thermostat, usually stuck open, which often show as taking ages to warm up, or warm up in traffic or stationary and then when you get going the temp drops. some diesel are worse than others in the warming up area have you got a problem, what are the symptoms cheers Joe

Hi Paul, I'm sure you can bring it up on the touch display, by going into diagnostics will check tomorrow, and i think you can on the dash as well, never tried the dash one but here is a link http://www.bluejag.co.uk/S-Type Instrument-cluster-diagnostics.php http://www.bluejag.co.uk/S-Type Instrument-cluster-diagnostic info.php cheers Joe

Hi and to make it worse some of the new expansion tanks don't have the low level warning pocket for the sensor so if a new expansion tank is required make sure it has the low level sensor on it a deffinate early warning system if you lose coolant cheers joe

Hi Don't know much about the diesel's but I would say either the heater valve has failed or your webasto is stuck on the heater valve controls the hot water into the heater radiator and is a common failure the webasto is the aux heater for start up time as diesel take ages to warm up the water if you type in s-type heater valve on ebay you will see the valve i mean, there specific to model and year and new ones are not the cheapest I think you can pull a fuse for the webasto aux heater to eliminate that cheers joe

hi if everthing looks ok and theres no boost from turbo, you need to check the turbo first make sure it spins free cheers joe

Hi Ive got a similar unit that does suction and pumps oil as well Ive found you can only get the oil out at a certain speed, with these vacuum systems if you want it out fast, you need to pull the sump plug it comes out faster with the vac system if the oil is hot, but if you use the plastic pipes that come with the kit, they collapse with the heat and suction you want a thin metal tube that goes down the dipstick hole, but some cars it wont work in because the tube bend on the way down, if the dip tube is straight it will work well with a metal tube cheers joe

Hi what are you welding with, are you tig welding these I take it the xk8's have rust issues, are they all like this, or just early ones cheers joe

Hi it sounds like turbo or a hose as blown do you get a gushing/hissing sound when you need power if not could be turbo, but they usually go in style, bang and lots of blue smoke you could easily check turbo, by removing inlet hose to turbo and feel the shaft, if it spins nice and free and not too much side play, turbo should be ok cheers joe

Yes that one, if you look at the wiring diagrams, theres permanent and switched supplies in there cheers joe

Hi Karl I would say sills, remove them covers and have a look, if there rust free, i would say the rest of the car is If its been a wedding car it should be in good condition check the boot after its been raining, or you wash the car, some s-type's the boot leak terrible above the rear lights also follow all your brake lines, they rust terrible on the s-types, especially at rear in the most awkward places cheers joe

Hi Thats the only problem, they allways look good in the pictures you get there and they look terrible Ive had that many times, I looked a good few before i bought i bought mine the trick is to wait and be patient, I ended up buying one local in the end and dont rush out and buy the first one you see cheers Joe

Hi Paul Either ignition switch or dash fuse box ignition switch wires will be quite heavy and awkward to splice to fuse box should be easier, you could buy piggy back fuses ( pic below 1 fuse for existing, 1 fuse for new circuit, neat) and be wired in minutes, easily reverseable and as for earth, there should be plenty of fixing to get a earth cheers joe