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S Type 2.5 V6 CTEK


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Hi

Any really mxs 5.0 is most common

I have the genuine jaguar one which is only a 3.3 amp, which does the job perfect

theres no benefit to getting anything bigger, wont charger the battery any better or faster, as its a smart charger and does it in processes, then when complete it turns off and stay in standby sort off, when the battery voltage drops it starts charging and goes through the same process again, this is why these can be left on long term and wont over charge or boil the battery dry, like cheaper ones

you can also get convenience kits that you fit. mine has a small socket in the boot, you just open the boot and plug it in and its maintaining, no need to lift carpet ot get to the battery

also if you fit anything connected to the battery, like one of the sockets or quick connect kits, make sure its a fused type as close to the battery as possible, some kits are not fused, and if you trap the cable by accident, it will just melt all the cables or possibly start a fire.

cheers

Joe

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3 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

Hi

Any really mxs 5.0 is most common

I have the genuine jaguar one which is only a 3.3 amp, which does the job perfect

theres no benefit to getting anything bigger, wont charger the battery any better or faster, as its a smart charger and does it in processes, then when complete it turns off and stay in standby sort off, when the battery voltage drops it starts charging and goes through the same process again, this is why these can be left on long term and wont over charge or boil the battery dry, like cheaper ones

you can also get convenience kits that you fit. mine has a small socket in the boot, you just open the boot and plug it in and its maintaining, no need to lift carpet ot get to the battery

also if you fit anything connected to the battery, like one of the sockets or quick connect kits, make sure its a fused type as close to the battery as possible, some kits are not fused, and if you trap the cable by accident, it will just melt all the cables or possibly start a fire.

cheers

Joe

Joe

Thanks very much for this information, especially the item regarding fitting a fuse.

I am also contemplating  buying the AA Solar Panel Charger. As it is able to plug straight into the OBD socket and will apparently produce an adequate charge even on dull winter days I feel this might be more useful for me. I sometimes stay away from home where I may not necessarily have access to mains power. Do you think  the mxs 5 has any advantage over the AA Solar charger.

Regards, John

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I would definitely go for the mxs5.0, and maybe get the AA Solar Panel Charger for times when I had no mains power.

I know that I can trust the CTEK every time (I have had mine for six years, and used it almost weekly including for several three month absences in New Zealand), and could never trust a solar panel in that way.

Also, I keep my car garaged, so the solar panel wouldn’t work.

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hi

The ctek is a smart charger so will turn off when the battery is fully charged, so wont over charge the battery

the solar charger will charge the battery continuous, whether its fully charged or not, also if I remember right, they only 2.4 watt, so best case its only 0.2 amps, thats 200 mA, so its not going to charge the best really, thats will full sun, when we get it.

to go with a solar one you really need a much bigger one really at least 10 watts, the 2.5 watt is not very good

cheers

Joe

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48 minutes ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

hi

The ctek is a smart charger so will turn off when the battery is fully charged, so wont over charge the battery

the solar charger will charge the battery continuous, whether its fully charged or not, also if I remember right, they only 2.4 watt, so best case its only 0.2 amps, thats 200 mA, so its not going to charge the best really, thats will full sun, when we get it.

to go with a solar one you really need a much bigger one really at least 10 watts, the 2.5 watt is not very good

cheers

Joe

Joe 

Many thanks for your comments on chargers. The main problem is that my car is not garaged because I do not have a garage and therefore a mains supply charger would have a power source from the house, which plainly would mean the cable would be outside. The cable would connection to the battery needing access to the boot, which troubles me little bit as it would mean gaining entry to a closed and locked boot to access the battery itself, with car outside overnight. 

I am now of the opinion that I should not buy the Solar powered version because a continuous charge to the battery could be equally as damaging as a battery running out of charge. Which only leaves me the option of a mains powered smart charger, the CTEK.

A dilemma I am not certain of an answer to at this very moment, but there has just got to be an answer to the problem because I do not want to experience problems with a flat or running low on charge battery.

Much appreciated information. Regards, John

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8 hours ago, Leo said:

I would definitely go for the mxs5.0, and maybe get the AA Solar Panel Charger for times when I had no mains power.

I know that I can trust the CTEK every time (I have had mine for six years, and used it almost weekly including for several three month absences in New Zealand), and could never trust a solar panel in that way.

Also, I keep my car garaged, so the solar panel wouldn’t work.

Leo

Many thanks for your prompt reply.

One of your comments is my reason for thinking towards Solar Powered. I unfortunately do not have a garage for the car. I would therefore have to have a live mains feed running to the car from the house whilst it is stood outside. Security is crossing my mind as well because I cannot think how to have access to the boot whilst it is locked.

Many thanks and Regards

John

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You could use the CTEK, put the charger indoors and use a extension lead for the ctek 12v to reach the car

then you could either mount a plug in the boot, so you just open the boot and plug it in and then shut the boot at lock it, the lead would be protected if fused if there was a problem, problem with this is some times you forget and just drive off and damage the lead, a friend of mine uses a ball of bluetak, places the ball over the ignition lock, which remind him if he gets in with out unplugging the charger that its still on charge

or you could just mount the convenience just below your bumper, so you can plug it in easy without opening the boot and would just pull apart if you forgot

extending the 12v lead lead would not be effected by any weather no matter how wet it got

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On 8/13/2021 at 7:17 PM, JOE-DOT-COM said:

You could use the CTEK, put the charger indoors and use a extension lead for the ctek 12v to reach the car

then you could either mount a plug in the boot, so you just open the boot and plug it in and then shut the boot at lock it, the lead would be protected if fused if there was a problem, problem with this is some times you forget and just drive off and damage the lead, a friend of mine uses a ball of bluetak, places the ball over the ignition lock, which remind him if he gets in with out unplugging the charger that its still on charge

or you could just mount the convenience just below your bumper, so you can plug it in easy without opening the boot and would just pull apart if you forgot

extending the 12v lead lead would not be effected by any weather no matter how wet it got

Joe

I feel certain you would be the person to give me an answer on this question.

Found a slit rubber bung in the very lower part of the boot area, which looks obviously for passing a cable through. Would the item on the under placed link be safe if used for an entry into the boot area, if used with the caps that they can supply for each end of the unit when they are parted. I had in mind running a 240v cable to the car with one part of this unit attached to it. The other part of the unit would be attached to a 240v cable after it had been passed through the rubber bung. The other end of this cable would then have a 13 amp socket attached to it. This 13 amp could then be used to connect the CTEK 7.0. When not in use the cable in the boot could be pulled gently up to the outside of the boot  and secured so as the unit did not dangle onto the ground under the car as it travelled.

The other query is : on the write up for this unit "PE" is mentioned. Is there any way of explaining simply to a non electrical brain what "PE" actual is/means ?

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/industrial-circular-connectors/3594384/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Connectors_Whoop-_-Industrial+Circular+Connectors_Whoop-_-3594384&matchtype=&pla-346913906554&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7JOyzdS18gIVhuvtCh0q7g9dEAQYBSABEgK_UvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Many thanks again.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

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Hi

you could do this, but it would be far safer to keep the 240v indoors and just extend the low voltage 12volts from the output of the CTEK  charger to the car

you could still use the same plug, but on the charging 12v side, be far safer, just fit a fuse on the positive as close to the battery as possible, use a 10 amp fuse.

PE is short for Protective Earth

cheers

Joe

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On 8/16/2021 at 5:44 PM, JOE-DOT-COM said:

Hi

you could do this, but it would be far safer to keep the 240v indoors and just extend the low voltage 12volts from the output of the CTEK  charger to the car

you could still use the same plug, but on the charging 12v side, be far safer, just fit a fuse on the positive as close to the battery as possible, use a 10 amp fuse.

PE is short for Protective Earth

cheers

Joe

Joe

Many thanks for informative reply. Put like you have I can easily understand the safety of keeping the 240v inside the house, keeping the charger inside the house would also make it easier to see what status the charger is showing without having to go into the boot.

I shall have to explore and see if CTEK supply a long enough 12v connection cable to reach the car and hopefully the plug end will pass through the bung entry I have identified in the boot area.

Many thanks and Regards, John

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2 hours ago, Wrinkly said:

 

I shall have to explore and see if CTEK supply a long enough 12v connection cable to reach the car and hopefully the plug end will pass through the bung entry I have identified in the boot area.

 

I just put my ctek extended cable in through boot (trunk for any U.S. viewers) and close it. 

 

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On 8/18/2021 at 1:03 PM, Jimbov8 said:

Exactly the same as me, no problems whatsoever.

I have tried a cable as described above and the boot lid crimps the cable. A bit concerned about what is going on with the two cables in side? 

Regards, John

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Put the cable so it comes out at an angle, have been doing that way for 6 years and the cable is unmarked

mine has a socket for the charger in the right hand side of the boot, have the oe jaguar ctek, great charger

cheers

Joe

41-iBqdd-GL._SX355_.thumb.jpg.c0a759489d3c4ca1e45bf5598b720065.jpg

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On 8/16/2021 at 5:44 PM, JOE-DOT-COM said:

Hi

you could do this, but it would be far safer to keep the 240v indoors and just extend the low voltage 12volts from the output of the CTEK  charger to the car

you could still use the same plug, but on the charging 12v side, be far safer, just fit a fuse on the positive as close to the battery as possible, use a 10 amp fuse.

PE is short for Protective Earth

cheers

Joe

Joe

Have been trying to find a 12v twin cable at least 10 meters in length to attempt to achieve what you are suggesting here. I.E. Keeping 249v inside the house and only having 12v outside running to the boot. Am finding all sorts of cables being quoted at differing amps. CTEK extension cables are only 2.5 Metres in length , which will be very costly and have numerous joints exposed to all weathers outside. Am wanting a one piece 12v twin extension lead.

1/ What amps do I need for this wiring at 12v

2/ Am assuming that I will have to fit new CTEK comfort plugs to the lead. Do these HAVE to be soldered, as that is something I have never done and have no knowledge of.

Many thanks with this ongoing saga.

Regards, John

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33 minutes ago, Jimbov8 said:

CTEK only recommend using 1 x 2.5m extension with their maintainers. That said, I have 2x 2.5m extensions to get from the garage to the car and have no problems with charging.

Jim

My main problem is I do not have a garage. I am attempting to keep the 240v side of the charger indoors and 12v lead only outside. I will need something

at least 8-10 metres to do so.

Regards, John

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hi

you could make your own extension lead

you need some 2 core 2.5mm cable which will be rated at approx 20 amps, if you have the ctek mxs5.0, which is 5 amp charger, the 2.5mm 2 core cable will be more than ample for the length your after, B&Q will do it or Ebay, 10m anout 15 quid, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202862982192?hash=item2f3b937430:g:9C0AAOSwT1VfkerP

best way would be to cut the 12v lead and use blue crimp on, bullet connectors, something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174800182662?hash=item28b2e71d86:g:TbgAAOSwxDJcKLzf

cheers

Joe

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17 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

hi

you could make your own extension lead

you need some 2 core 2.5mm cable which will be rated at approx 20 amps, if you have the ctek mxs5.0, which is 5 amp charger, the 2.5mm 2 core cable will be more than ample for the length your after, B&Q will do it or Ebay, 10m anout 15 quid, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202862982192?hash=item2f3b937430:g:9C0AAOSwT1VfkerP

best way would be to cut the 12v lead and use blue crimp on, bullet connectors, something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174800182662?hash=item28b2e71d86:g:TbgAAOSwxDJcKLzf

cheers

Joe

Joe

Thank you very much for this explicit and informative suggestion. I will certainly go down your route to achieve my aim. I now realise I may need to go as much as 12 metres in cable length, but doubt that will change your instructions.

One further question, if I may be a nuisance again. Would the same suggested materials apply if I went down the route of an CTEK MXS 7.0  or would a different cable and amperage apply. 

With many thanks for your time and effort in finding and sending these details.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

 

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1 hour ago, Wrinkly said:

Joe

Thank you very much for this explicit and informative suggestion. I will certainly go down your route to achieve my aim. I now realise I may need to go as much as 12 metres in cable length, but doubt that will change your instructions.

One further question, if I may be a nuisance again. Would the same suggested materials apply if I went down the route of an CTEK MXS 7.0  or would a different cable and amperage apply. 

With many thanks for your time and effort in finding and sending these details.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

 

Joe

It is the pain again. Please could I ask a further question on top of what I have already posed you tonight.

I am being advised that the manufacturers advise that extensions should be no longer that 2.5 meters. I know not why, but what would your take on this reported manufacturers advice be. I wonder if it anything to do with the length of the extension causes a loss of power in the 12v line?

Also, as I have tried cable into the boot and shut the boot lid on it, it crimps the outer casing (is that insulation) of the cable, which makes me wonder what will be happening to the two cables inside the cable. I notice 12v red/black wiring is available without the outer casing/covering which is plainly a great deal thinner than the twin cables with an outer covering. Would these non casing cables be safe to use or should I go for the outer covering twin cable like you have suggested in your last message.

Sorry to further trouble you.

Many thanks and gratitude.

Regards, John

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yes that cable is rated at 20 amps, the mxs7.0 is only 7amps so it fine

the 2.5m max is what they recommend due to volt drop and cable getting warm, but its only 5 to 7 amps, the cable is more than ample

also thats only if the battery is complete flat, as your using it just to keep the battery topped up, the current will be no where near that, thats why I said theres no point of buying a charger thats too large, not need to keep a battery topped up, the Jaguar one is only 3.3 amps.

cheers

Joe

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13 hours ago, JOE-DOT-COM said:

yes that cable is rated at 20 amps, the mxs7.0 is only 7amps so it fine

the 2.5m max is what they recommend due to volt drop and cable getting warm, but its only 5 to 7 amps, the cable is more than ample

also thats only if the battery is complete flat, as your using it just to keep the battery topped up, the current will be no where near that, thats why I said theres no point of buying a charger thats too large, not need to keep a battery topped up, the Jaguar one is only 3.3 amps.

cheers

Joe

Joe

My sincere thanks for the extremely exacting and helpful information. I feel I can now make a decision on what way to go with this current project to keep the battery in good condition and topped up to avoid the disasters I have read of battery running too low on S Types.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

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On 8/23/2021 at 11:18 AM, Wrinkly said:

Joe

My sincere thanks for the extremely exacting and helpful information. I feel I can now make a decision on what way to go with this current project to keep the battery in good condition and topped up to avoid the disasters I have read of battery running too low on S Types.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

Everything  (I think) needed to install properly has now been purchase. Am waiting for arrival and then the fitting will be undertaken.

Thanks and Best Wishes to all involved along the way to getting to this point.

Regards, John

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