Jimbov8

You would be best advised to find a Jaguar independent in your area. Dealers are a definite no-no and as for Halfords, you may chance it though I certainly wouldn’t.

You can also switch the valves off by simply pressing the dynamic switch though you would have the stiffer suspension at the same time.

As you are in Nottingham, David Marks is the man to sort you out. Just google him.

Hi Colin, My car lives under the carport, most of the time, and I have never noticed any condensation in the car as a result.

You could always meet each other halfway.

Hi David, My CTEK 10 goes to stage 4 fairly quickly, it will then take quite some time before it shows fully charged. You don’t say which CTEK you have but I would imagine it will be the same. The manual should give some indication.

Always better to use the ground point David, here’s mine As you can see I have used the main negative ground of the battery so as not to bypass the BMS.

Hi John, A little more info on the problem may help as to why you feel the need for the electronics to be rebooted. What sort of problems are you experiencing at the moment?

You would be best advised to have the codes read first in order to get a way forward. My feeling though, is either a wheel sensor/ wiring fault or rusty reluctor ring.

For a fully charged battery you should see 12.8v, anything less than 12.4v and your battery will start sulphating.

Excellent news and thanks for the update.👍

I can confirm when mine was done it took around 45 minutes.

That sounds like a leak somewhere. I would recommend going to the Jag Specialist in Doncaster, they will vacuum test the system for leaks and, if all is ok, refill with the correct amount of refrigerant.

Will Mister Philip know you're coming Ma'am? Oh he'll know Paddington, he'll know

No rev indication on trying to start would point to the crank position sensor being at fault.

Unfortunately, XF’s are prone to lock malfunctions. The most likely problem is micro switches in the lock mechanism itself at fault. Before you go paying for unnecessary parts, having the codes read would be a good idea.

Your first port of call should be to fully charge the battery, if that doesn’t change things then have the codes read to see what the car is saying.

This may give you a better understanding Paul. https://www.acdiagnosis.com/post/proper-auto-a-c-vent-temperature-what-temperature-should-the-a-c-blow

Here’s the workshop manual, http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type 2002.5-2008-FSM-Workshop.pdf and for the electrical manual, http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/SType/S-Type-Electrical-2006on.pdf

Yes, this is correct. Had your wife stopped the car, she would not have been able to restart it. Furthermore, there would have been a warning on the dash to say the fob was missing from the car as she drove away.

You may find the system might just need topping up. Have the system pressure tested to ensure there are no leaks, at the same time, they will be able to tell you how much refrigerant is in the system and whether it needs topping up or not.

Here is the part number you quoted and available. https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/c2z12659-steering-column-lock.html

Welcome to the forum Mark. A steering lock is worth getting as it acts as a visual deterrent. The best thing to buy is a couple of Faraday pouches to keep your fobs in when you’re not using the car.

Assuming your car is fault free, when fully locked there is a natural discharge of 30milliamps, anything above this figure is considered to be a parasitic drain due to a fault. If you do have a “parasitic drain” then all a CTEK will do is mask the problem, although it will keep your battery charged.

Try Michelin’s, you won’t be disappointed.