JOE-DOT-COM

hi have a look here http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/13904-a-nasty-shock/#comment-41141 do a proper job, like paul had done on his then you can forget about it for years, do a proper job your sills are structural and play a massive role if you have a accident, whether you walk away from it or not available on ebay or a good garage will knock them up as required http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-S-Type-Sills-Zintec-Weld-On-Laser-Profiled-Sills-P-Side-D-Side-/131864911039?hash=item1eb3c2dcbf:g:PZQAAOSwyjBW3Ys5 cheers Joe

Hi the ones in the top of that link are one piece, so once you have clipped them in, you will have to break them to get them out and possibly break the sill cover the jaguar/ford ones are a 2 piece, they have a white bit that stays in the sill and a black part, that slots into the sill cover, it has a ball on it that clicks into the white bit, they will come back apart for a few years till they go brittle and break on you cheers Joe

hi theres also some of these all the way along the bottom if I can remember right 6 each side, these usually can be reused cheers Joe

hi it will be some kind differential pressure switch i bet for when the dpf start to clog up, so it knows when to regen cheers Joe

Hi parts and spares are widely available as for engine, if you go for 4.2 supercharged, its quite a strong engine, has no known issues apart from valley pipe, which is very labour intensive to replace a £20 hose, budget £600 to £1000 to get replaced at a garage bushes as on the s-type are a big issue, depending on how its been driven, should be really quiet and no knocking noises my biggest worry would be rust, they can rust very bad on these, sills can be quite bad especially worse towards the rear cheers Joe

Hi with out knowing where the pipe go, it could be one of many things it sounds like a valve, so could be a purge valve, bleed valve, overboost valve, idle adjustment valve what year is the car and what engine does it have cheers Joe

Hi If I was going to clean a engine bay, first I would soak all the worst bits in WD40 and all the electrics, leave it a day, the WD40 will soften all the dirt then put some degreaser on it, like gunk, on a cold engine is best,( hot engine with cause condensation to form inside parts as its hit by cold water ) leave it a while and wash it off, then start the car and get it hot so it all dries off, if it won't start, remove any covers and use a bit of compressed air around coil packs and spark plug recessed holes, petrol and diesel should start anyway. then i would finish off in giving every thing a coat of WD40 or like, other wise all the ally bits start going furry quite quick AND DON'T DO IT ON YOUR BLOCK PAVING!!! cheers Joe

Hi I hope thats not the princess, shes not very clean!!!! it looks like a map sensor, converts a pressure/vacuum to a voltage, for the ecu cheers Joe

hi the old ones when you have removed the covers, some tend to snap, there in two parts I use some trim pliers to pop them out of the sill, along with a terminal screw driver, to sqeeze the holding tabs the new ones come clipped together, so you just slide them into the cover and push them onto the sill, when you remove the cover next time the white part stays in the sill I use one of these and it has many other uses cheers Joe

hi these are the same jaguar part as used by ford http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-Ford-Interior-Trim-Panel-Retainer-Clips-Door-cards-fascias-Fiesta-Ka-Puma-/370914964710?hash=item565c4134e6:m:momw6jyQX3FdeUIi6AFl5Pw

Hi There on eBay, same as ford use Cheers

Hi If your going to clean the engine bay, use a degreaser and then just use a hose Don't use a pressure washer, the pressure will push water past seals and it will damage bearings the other side They won't fail short term, but once they start rusting then it's going to cause some damage Long term things like idler bearings and alternator will fail Cheers Joe

Hi It might be worth just lowering it, when you have some spare time sometimes people leave the wiring tags on and it might identify what the wires actually do and once you traced the wires might be a easy fix, may be worth spending an hour on it cheers Joe

Hi here some links to s-type clips https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1hD0BF_3TM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO_R02fq6Vg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW9OA5Nm3WU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPRKdxEcCYM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpqan_DG7_A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nloFIGR7LLk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asGvnIWM2Ig not s-type but still good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKJPFRNO344 cheers Joe

hi saw this clip handling looks good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ESqqhKDYsw

hi have a look at this Battery reset.pdf also tells you how to bypass the stereo code cheers joe

hi all saw this and found it interesting youtube link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBLaYtIUP10&feature=youtu.be cheers Joe

Hi I used Evans before, its very good want to use it on my S-type R, as the valley pipe is a common failure, due to heat and pressure when i change my valley pipe, I will go over to evans waterless coolant, I recommend changing the water pump as well Its very good and it will eliminate any future hose failures as there no pressure Its a bit dearer on my car though as the water system holds 10 litres, so its 2x prep and 2x coolant You get to do the party trick as well, like when the engines hot and running, you just open the bonnet, while every body watching, you just take the cap off your expansion tank and while every body jump for cover, you just look in and smile, because there no pressure there recommend also if you water system looks dirty then give it a good flush first cheers Joe

hi as this is not a standard part nobody here would know how its wired, your going have to pull it down and follow the wires these drop down telly's are made in china and every one wired different or take it to a auto electrician who could have a look sounds s bit of a throw together to put a tv screen on the roof panel of a s-type, its all down to who every fitted it originally and there nothing to say it still works cheers Joe

Hi David Yes the bushes are out there think the xj are similar to the s-type, if there alloy arms, there all available you can get them all on ebay, single or in sets for the whole arm it depends on your garage, most garages just want to swap the arm, easy job, the bushes have to be pressed out and in, so it depends on which garage you go cheers Joe

Hi Kasper Its top money, but low mileage its virtually impossible to find a good STR with under 40k on the clocks for less than £10000 this is one of the dearest i've seen but one of the lowest milage if its going to be a daily runner and you rack the miles up, the value will drop slightly if it only going be a second summer car, you keep the miles low and keeps it a least 5 years, I don't think you will lose any moneys on it but for that money, I would expect full jaguar service history, a pile of receits and loads of history but make sure you check the obvious, check the sills for rust, the sills can rust extremely bad and are hidden by covers, especially if it has a sunroof, sunroof gutters drain into the sills, quality tyres and even tyre wear, uneven tyre wear = worn bushes or bad tracking on all 4 wheels, brakes and hand brake (later STR we not built as good as pre 2005, they went for cheaper calipers and smaller discs, which can be trouble some ), dash check make sure all the warning lights light up and then go out, airbag, engine management, abs, make sure it drive nice and quiet, if it been driven hard they get through bushes and there are a massive amount of bushes on the s-type, this is what give it its really smooth ride, head lights work correct ( switch lights on, switch ignition on, the light adjusters go fully up and then they go down ), this car is 9 years old and is due a autobox service, if it not been done budget £300 to £400 to get this done, check online with vosa, that the mileage tally's up, check auto lights work and auto wipers, a dodgy fitted windscreen will cause these not to work, engines are really strong, jaguar only use orange coolant and should be clean, autobox should be silky smooth in normal mode and try it in sport, any harsh changes in the 1st to 3rd and 3rd to 1st area could mean problems, as at 2007 should have the latest software, look at the shock absorbers, check for leaks and heavy rust, there green on the str's, made by bilstein and come in at £400 a shock, not fitted make sure every thing works, if you find any faults, its a bargaining tool to get the price down check the body panels paintwork, especially around the front, these really shift and take some stopping, at this price, i expect it to be all original I think the main thing would be service history, service history, critical if its going to hold any value at this price it should come with a descent warranty, mine came with 3 years, but has to be serviced by a dealer every year or 10k miles, for it to be worth the paper its written on also road tax on this is £505 a year and may go up in the future dont be scared to ask to look under the car, a good dealer will put it up on a ramp for you, they did when i asked and have a good look if you any other questions just ask cheers Joe

hi as far as i can see, there is no bracket had a look on the web and the crankshaft sensor is mounted directly on the rear oil seal cover just google jaguar s-type 2.7 diesel rear crankshaft oil seal cheers joe

hi I'd test at the connectors for 12v when each item is turned on but as 2 items are not working I'd say its a earth problem, check the light cluster, the lamp holders, there usually a metal grid that the circuit, check you have a good earth to each lamp holder, this metal grid can break sometimes here's a link to manual that might help http://wilfredfoto.nl/XJ6 Series III/manuals/XJ6 Service And Repair Manual (Haynes).pdf

hi this should be old school and all hard wired check at the light lamp holder connectors, with a voltmeter, check you have 12v coming in but I'd say its going to be a broken earth as 2 lights are out check on the lamp holders, there usually like a metal grid type circuit, check you have a good earth at each lamp holder, these break sometimes and you lose part of the circuit here a link to a manual that might help http://wilfredfoto.nl/XJ6 Series III/manuals/XJ6 Service And Repair Manual (Haynes).pdf cheers joe

Hi Paul, I recommend using a cavity wax, inside the sills, its thinner and more searchy, soaks into any remaining rust and stops it and because its thinner, it also will flex, also when the car gets hot, it goes wet like and if theres any scratches in it, it will reseal it self. there plenty out there, like wurth and dinotrol both good I used a product by a company called "WURTH", not the cheapest out there, but I've used it on many cars over the years and never had any rust come back after I used on my mitsubishi 3000GT and my fiat Coupe, about 10 years ago and there both still rust free and flying through mot's Did my Jaguar S-type Last year, did my sills in and out and every box section i could find. One thing I noticed is, my sill compared to yours, was, is my sills have large slots in them every 6 inches or so, don't know if these were added on later cars for ventillation, but they seemed to keep mine, rust free, but these slots also made it easy for me to spray the cavity wax in, the slots are in the inner and outer sills, so I sprayed throught them, if your using waxoyl, don't spay it on too thick, it needs to be thin so it can flex with the car, or the waxoyl will crack, holding water behind it and making things worse than, no waxoyl applied at all. cheers joe