Big John

Hi Lee Sorry to hear it is still an issue. Personally it is the sort of issue I would put up with rather than giving a dealer £260 to diagnose! Only other suggestion would be to try an independent Jag Specialist if you can find one locally. If you do get it sorted please post as it may well help others. Good luck John

Hi Ian I did it over 5 years ago now and have never regretted it. Personally I would go for a sportbrake (more practical and even better looking IMHO 🙂 Also my advice would be to avoid the Ingenium engines and stick with either the 2.2 (ideally the 200bhp version) or the V6. The pre-2016s also look better! Mine is 2013. Problems to date: Water in boot (sorted before I got it but cost £1k for previous owner) so check boot is dry. New discs and pads about every 2.5 years - It is a big car... New Battery (AGM so £260) Replacement Exterior Temp Sensor (£150) Replacement Front Bumper Wiring Loom - (Parking sensor and reversing camera work as a unit) £250 at Jag main dealer Rear doors & windows refused to open (I let the battery go flat in 1st Lockdown) sorted under warranty so I advise keeping battery happy with a CTek charger every couple of weeks as a minimum. Bridgestone weather control A005's last about 15-20K miles (mine is on 19" wheels). I only use Shell V Power diesel and have never had any EGR or DPF issues (mainly used for short local runs with a few motorway runs for an hour or so each month. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine 🙂 John

Hi http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/Parts_S-Types_2000-2005.pdf Page 646. They all have different part numbers 😞 John

Don't know if this site is any help.... http://www.jagrepair.com/ABSModuleRepairs.htm John

Hi Terence Have you tried somewhere like this: https://jetex.co.uk/classic-car-converters/ ? John

Hi Vas Can you give us more info? Is it turning over normally / slowly / not at all? Is the battery charged? Any fault codes? John

😞 In that case only sugestion would be to try setting language to English UK (if available) or try a Jaguar dealer for advice (not them doing it!) Good luck

Hi Lee Does this help? John

Hi James Do you want to give us the full list odf problems? Someone might be able to help with at least some of them 🙂 John

Hi James Did the RAC attend and read the fault codes? If You bought from a dealer take it back unless it was sold "as seen" John

Hi Possible cause is a low voltage event from the battery, that really screws with the computers. It could be any othe ABS wheel sensors as well as a host of other sensors causing the issue. You really need to follow the codes. Good luck John

Mine was front bumper wiring loom! Probably unconnected with battery change but if a saloon it could be the boot wiring loom and the "battery change opening" was the last nail in its coffin. As Ernest says you need to get the codes read, Good luck. John

Hi Jon That does point towards glow plugs. Personally I would invest in a can of easy start and see how it goes. As long as it does actually start eventually. I had a saab 2.2 TiD with faulty glow plugs which were impossible to remove. Went for a re-con cylinder head in the end rather than having to drill them out and re tap the head. (£1k ten years ago). Good luck 🙂

Does a fully charged battery make any difference? Have you tried after leaving a charger connected overnight? Is the engine turning over at the same speed it does in warmer weather?

Could well be a dodgy battery. Do you have a good quality battery charger to see if it can take a charge? CTek are very good. (really worth getting one if you do not have one as the XF really appreciates a top up once a month (I do mine once a week). If not I would suggest you get a free battery check at Kwikfit as they are also a good source for replacement if it is dead. They did mine a couple of months ago for £261 but they start at £238.

Hi John Normal charging voltage should be higher than that. Mine is normally 14.7 to 14.9. How old is the battery and is it an AGM? John

Hi. If it was just the casing can you not swap the mirrors over? J

Hi Lewis. Pretty sure yours will be a single batttery (easy enough to check in the boot). If the battery was simply changed without telling the computers, the car may not yet have realised the battery is now OK to do a restart. However don't worry as every so often the car will do a check itself by running the battery down to what it thinks is 75% charge but never below 12.2v. Once that is complete it is quite possible the Stop/Start will reappear as if by magic 🙂 If you are not doing regular long journeys I would also recommend getting a ctek battery maintainer to keep the charge topped up.

Hi Cyril If you have just bought it at the garage the seller needs to sort it or give you a full refund John

Hi Dave In answer to your first point I agree, that is what I said 🙂 , I woould never use it if my destination was an Airport car park! However proponents would argue that is why the cars use AGM batteries that are designed for repeated deep discharge (I don't see myself approaching the expected service specification of over 300000 starts in the next five years). On the second point, again I sort of agree. However, as I said on wear and tear, this is accounted for by the design to minimse wear. A nice little article here: https://haynes.com/en-gb/tips-tutorials/stop-start-technology-explained As I said it is a marmite issue 🙂 J

Hi Ian Stop/Start is quite a marmite function. Most people love it or hate it. Potential negatives are usually related to engine and/or starter wear and tear. Most engine and starter pinion wear is at start up, however stop/start actually pre-engages the starter pinion so not really an issue. The middle position is people not liking not being in control or insecurity that engine will start again 🙂 Positives are that it does reduce emissions (the actual rationale for its introduction). If it engages you know your battery/batteries are OK as it will not engage if it is not sure it can restart the car. Personally I let it engage at least once each journey before disabling as this confirms batteries are OK. If going anywhere when car is to be left for a few days I would always disable as the XF does conduct occasional self tests of the battery which involves discharging to 75% capacity. My concern is always that id gets to that point just before I park up so instead of starting with 100% I would be starting with 75% 😞 As you may know the XF along with many modern cars does seem to suffer from parasitic drain so I only leave mine for a week at most before attaching my ctek. J

Hi Rob I have just changed my main for £261 (fitted): https://www.kwik-fit.com/batteries/search/details/bosch-s5a13 They also do a 3yr Guarantee one at £238: https://www.kwik-fit.com/batteries/search/details/agm115 I got my Aux from Tanya (mine was actually labelled LR/Jag! (currently £54 on ebay): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313056124925?hash=item48e3995ffd:g:VmwAAOSwy2RlMs2c J

Hi Possibly due to your timing. The main battery takes a while to come back to its steady state voltage when a load is removed from it. If you unlocked the car and then opened the boot, the car will have "woken up" and started powering up various modules. If you then read the main battery voltage the car was probably drawing in excess of 10 Amps so the voltage will have dropped to 11.6v. If you then just left the car with the charger on the secondary battery that battery will have started charging. As time went on the car will have started shutting down the modules as you had not started it, but this can take quite a long time. If you then simply re-checked your main battery voltage without again unlocking the car the modules should all have been asleep, allowing the main battery to recover to 12.4v. However, 12.4v at rest is pretty low for an AGM battery so you could well be due a replacement for both. My 2013 Sportbrake is now on its second Secondary, and third main battery. J

Well done!

Hi. I think the above download needs a word of warning added. If you remove the DPF the car emissions will rise to a point where the car will probably fail an MOT (or other test if outside UK.). In addition a removed DPF is an automatic MOT fail. This link is from gov.uk website: https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/diesel-particulate-filters-protecting-the-environment-and-the-mots-integrity/ J