JOE-DOT-COM

Hi Hard wire kits are available for most devices, which are always a options and easily fitted but I like the option of completely removing the device, when leaving the car and also using the device in another car, the Dash cam/navigation device I use only occasionally, it was quite expensive and I use in my other cars mainly on long trips cheers Joe

Hi I had to remove mine, when I serviced the car, changing the supercharger belt and aux belt its quite easy, I used a larger printer type syringe to remove the anti freeze, then the hoses have constant pressure type hose clips, pliers work well to squeeze them and remove them usually I would say be cautious because the two pipes on the expansion tank are really brittle and can snap real easy, but as your changing dont matter sensor is underneath, just unplug the bottom hose has a metal clip, you can press the clip or remove the clip to get the hose connector off, but if you remove it don't lose it, as they can't be bought on the own if i remember right theres just one fixing on top and the bottom just slots on I found it easiest to loosen the tank off, remove upper hoses and then the bottom hose,clip is a little more fiddly cheers Joe

Hi I bought usb sockets of ebay and fitted them into my glove box and into the bottom of my arm rest cubby hole both are easy to wire up and on my dash, i just tuck it in around the windscreen trim and just plug it in, inside my glove box cheers Joe some pics glove box covers on glove box cover open arm rest bought these off ebay, cheap as chips, quite good quality when they come, just remember to add a fuse just to protect them, just took them out of there mounting plate, as its not needed and looks neater.

Hi I use a bluetooth obd adapter, with a app like Torque the temp gauge on the S-type and the X-type is not directly linked to the engine temperature as long as the temp is with a certain band then it will stay in the normal zone on the gauge when you monitor the actual engine temp sensor, it can alter quite a bit but the temp gauge stays normal so if you had a bad connection on the temp sensor, this could cause the gauge to go overtemp also you can put the S-type and X-type dash in diagnostics mode, and monitor the coolant temp directly have a look here http://www.bluejag.co.uk/X-Type Instrument-cluster-diagnostics.php cheers Joe

Hi Tracking might be ok but camber or caster might be out I have used kwik fit, certain depo's have 4 wheel alignment, cost me £50 but they did a cracking job, print out for before and after cheers Joe

Hi on a hot or humid day its normal the evaporator/radiator inside the car get very cold, as the fan blows through it, any moisture condenses on it and drains away through a drain tube to underneath the car cheers Joe

Hi your generic code reader will only engine fault codes and only basic codes at that so any trans, heating, airbag, suspension, braking, cruise, abs, audio, door locking and many many more modules wont be read, on the s-type, after 2002 every thing is fly by wire, so every light bulb, sensor, relay, motor or solenoid is control by either a module or control unit, wont be read if you want the proper thing you want a mongoose lead which comes with software jaguar IDS/SDD , which can do every thing jaguar can IDS is for pre 2005 cars and SDD is for post 2005 cars, Version 130 or 131 is best, it will do all cars, all S-types, later version are for later cars, later version dont have IDS so is not backwards compatible mongoose lead and software can be bought for around £100 but need to be installed on windows XP pro, but some come with a emulator type software that will work with window 7 onwards, but its not as stable as the windows xp pro, version I installed mine on a dedicated laptop, laptops for windows xp spec can be bought for around £50 cheers Joe

Hi The prices is on the web site They do a very good job, they remove all the under body covers, wheel arch liners and rear lights on the s-type they also do inside all four doors and sills its stops rust and lubricates bushes and electrics, when you there they spray in side the fuse boxes and as a demo on there car they tip a load of water over the fuse box showing its made it water proof they have a site on facebook as well https://www.facebook.com/krownuk/ A friend of mine, near me had his S-type done recently, after having his sill replaced, they did the whole car, they also clean the car after as well, Its well worth the investment, if your thinks of keeping your car, If i had a new car, it would be the first thing I would have done cheers Joe

Hi If your after winter protection then most of it should be underneath, they corrode a lot more where you can't see it. I can recommend Krown rust protection, they do the whole car, they remove all the plastic covers and do a proper job and best bit its guaranteed. There in Birmingham have a look at there site, well recommended http://www.krown.co.uk/ It's far superior to like say waxoyl, it's like a thin gel, does not harden or peel Cheers Joe

Hi The two are different, Wax is designed to make it shine and protect the paint, Polish usually designed to rejuvenate the paint You should really wax regular and not polish, as a lot of polished actually take some paint off or lacquer as on modern cars I'd be interested what people use as well, I used a few but I've never really been impressed with any thing so what do you guys recommend in waxes that it cheers Joe

Hi Modern cars feature heavily with carbon fiber, it's the future, strength and weight As used on the F type R The carbon effect trim was a option on the X types and so was the piano black, but it was never on the S type. But suppose the S type was badged as a old man's car and if it didn't have chrome it didn't cut it But suppose they have to moved with the times, most new jaguar's don't have much chrome at all now, to meet the younger generation If Sir William lyons, was making the E-type today it would be made from carbon fiber, aluminium cars just don't cut it any more, family cars ate made from alloy now Cheers Joe

Hi Changed the wood trim today in my S-type All ways liked the darker colors, so I decided to have a change Bought a set of trim off Ebay, they can be bought really cheap Decided on Carbon Fiber look, so had them Hydrodipped in Carbon effect and they came out really well The pictures don't do them justice, they look really well in the flesh, really deep gloss Also changed the centre vent while I was at it for one with a clock in it, looks well I just wan't a charcoal armrest now, the ivory armrest is just too bright for me, think the charcoal one will match the seats, as there ivory/charcoal I usually like original, so I've saved the parts, so any future owner could put them back, if I had bought the car from new this is how I would of ordered it cheers Joe

Hi What engine do you have, I can look on Jaguar JTIS is there a procedure cheers Joe

Hi I think its a great clip but could not find abetter quality clip if you want watch the full episode, go on to you tube and type top gear S05E01 and there loads of the full episode's on there they decide in the end on the Vauxhall Monaro, on cost, as its nearly 20K cheaper cheers Joe

Hi Saw this clip and though it was a great little clip of the S-type on top gear many years ago not the best quality, but the only one I could find link to clip CLIP cheers Joe

Hi The ZF 6HP26, like Ron said is suppose to be sealed for life though the life of a car is 10 years, manufacturers say I changed mine about a years ago and my car is 13 years old, but its only covered just over 30k, It was also changed when the car was 5 years old by one of the previous owners, I Did mine my self and the parts cost just under £200 for genuine ZF parts, which include 7 litres of zf lifeguard 6, new filter/sump, new pins for filter and mechatronics sleeve the new parts have been updated better filter, bigger heads on the pins and the mechatronics sleeve, seals the wiring connector on the gearbox, which is known to leak also if your has never been back to a dealer from new, which is unlikely may want software updates, last updates were in 2009, also they reset the adaptations, which is the memory for the gearbox, the gearbox learns your driving style and remembers it, but sometimes remembers dodgy gear changes and this reset can clear surging, lurching and erratic gear changes there a clip on you tube how to do it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAMseFY8GpY&t=91s cheers Joe

HI Yes the bottom clips can be removed with out breaking them, and they go back easy as well once the bottom is loose, you can just let them drop enough to see the bottom of the sills cheers Joe clips are like this

Hi Timing chains are generally maintenance free check your hand book on recommended changing interval but as a rule, they have self adjusting tensioners and as long as there quiet that's it, once they stretch to far they rattle, cheers Joe

Hi Its most probably easiest to fabricate one your self you want one like this and then a standard 1/2" torque wrench but I dont know where you will find a torque setting, as there usually just knocked on cheers Joe

HI Its chain driven , only the 2.7 were belt driven cheers Joe

Hi thinks it put there to stop heat transfer I know there's a big piece under the supercharger its just added to try to stop heat transfer from the engine block to the supercharger and inlet pipework not seen it visible like that though cheers Joe

Hi From what I can think off the top of my head most important sills, sills can completely rot away, there hidden under a plastic cover, so cant be seen easily, but if the rear arches have bubbles, there most likely the sill are gone, as in completely gone, don't matter what year, there completely random check for knocking and banging from the suspension, theirs loads of suspension bushes front and back, if driven hard these can fail, should be silky smooth drive check all tires are worn even, uneven Tyre wear usually means worn bushes or rear tie rods front and rear doors, check front and rear vertical seam on the inside of the door, they start to corrode first there, looks like spiders under the paint where the seam sealer is, front of front door is hidden under a plastic trim, this just pulls off and slides up out of the way check every thing works all the electrics, check abs, engine management, air bag lights, light up on the dash and go out, seen lots of these led's removed or taped over check fuse box and boot well for water, they leak in around the rear lights and can cause fuse box, rear reverse module and other modules to fail. check all the keys supplied fit and work on the car, because its got a second key, dont assume it fits and works ifs it got electronic parking brake, test it at least a dozen times, these also fail regular also use a app like "VEHICLE SMART" which will give you its old mot history and advisories, lots of corrosion advisories is usually a bad sign, also you can check all its old mot mileage history on the same app take it for a good run and let it idle for a good while, some are known to have overheating issues, with faulty thermostats, clogged radiators or even failed head gaskets service history is always nice as well, looked after examples will all ways come with a pile of receipts its also worth checking the headlights as well,if there normal halogen, then you can adjust the height of the beam on the dash, operate the switch and make sure they go up and down, the adjuster inside go brittle and break, you can buy replacement adjuster, but you have to remove the bumper, to remove the headlights, if its got HID lights, when you switch the ignition on, the lights go up and down and then self level, every time you switch the ignition on, adjusters in these also fail and if you unplug the headlights with the battery connected, you need jaguar software to reset them and they wont self level till they are reset cheers Joe

Hi try disconnecting the battery, it should clear it make sure you have the stereo code first also your mileage is not required for Mot, it will just be recorded as 0 cheers Joe

Hi Nowadays Diesels have more sensors and electronics than petrols have, gone are the days of super reliable mechanical diesels cheers Joe

HI Have you checked the hoses for any splits if there's a split in a hose it will cause it to run lean, because its sucking unmetered air from the split and misfire the easiest way I've found to find splits in induction hoses, is to use easystart, with the engine idling, spray it around the induction hoses, if there's a split hose the easystart causes the revs to raise, giving you a close are to look at Ideally you want someone with Jaguar IDS/SDD to fault find on it, don't if there's any body on here near you what engine does your car have cheers Joe