JOE-DOT-COM

Hi A friend of mine had this recently and it ended up being a split hose on the induction side, between air filter and engine because when you drive steady it draws in unmetered air and causes problems, his was surging and with lack of power as well cheers Joe

Hi I'm sure mine on my 2004 S-type R are air inflating bladders as you can hear them deflating when you retract them, they feel like a double bladder cheers Joe

Hi This is a good point also maybe worth mentioning that most questions have been covered in the past, and one way to find answers really fast, is to use the search bar at the top right of this page this with search all the topics on this site and will usually find great answers with out waiting for some one to reply cheers Joe

Hi Some great cars cheers Joe

Hi If your after one just for the odd fault code I'd have a bluetooth obd II scan its just a bluetooth adapter you plug in the diagnostic and then pair it up with your phone, mines a android phone and I use apps like "TORQUE" and "DASHCOMMAND" both allow to read and reset fault codes, you can monitor most of the sensors on your engine and you can monitor and log sensors, like short term and long term fuel trims, essential to find air leaks on the engine and the bluetooth adapter can be bought for less than a £5, software app can be installed for free off play.com but if your after a hand held code reader, Ive seen a lot of people have the Icarsoft which is one of the best for jaguar cheers Joe https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.palmerperformance.DashCommand http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iCarsoft-LR-II-LANDROVER-RANGE-ROVER-JAGUAR-OBD2-Diagnostic-Tool-Scanner-/302333505073?hash=item46647b2e31:g:BeIAAOSwCU1Y4Aa0

Hi and Welcome Darren I have a S-type R and they a great car to drive cheers Joe

Hi If your getting hot from the drivers side, dccv valve for that side must be open if you unplug the two valves on the dccv and then it goes cold, the control unit might have failed, these usually fail when the dccv gets soaked in water or the wiring has been shorted I try unplugging the 2 solenoids first on the dccv , if it goes cold , you know there something holding it on if you can swap the connectors on the solenoids on dccv , then the fault should swap, drivers side should go cold and passenger side gets hot, then you know the dccv is ok and its most probably the control unit it may be worth plugging in with jaguar software as it would tell you where the fault is cheers Joe

Hi Tom Could be one of very many sensors, but its usually a sensor only way to know is to plug in, and see what fault come come up you will need someone with jaguar diagnostics and most generic code readers wont display transmission faults cheers Joe

HI I'd say its a electrical, all 3 at the same time its either going to be a bad earth or a broken wire, or damaged loom causing a short I'd disconnect the battery, then disconnect the engine ecu and check with a mutil meter from the ecu connector to the 3 faulty sensor connector, make sure you have low resistance and there ok, no breaks in the wires also check all the fuses, some sensors have seperate supplies, wiring diagrams below cheers Joe workshop manual Jaguar Workshop Manual X-Type 2001-2009.pdf wiring diagram X-Type Electrical Guide 2004.pdf

Hi Don't know much about the XF but its a common problem on most modern cars and can usually be the throttle body thats dirty or even MAF dirty MAF usually easy access but throttle body can be in awkward places on modern cars Throttle body on modern cars is fly by wire, so mechanical link between pedal and engine cheers Joe

Hi I get 34.5 MPG on my S-type R, which is the 4.2 Supercharged, which I think is great for the engine size and weight of car. Never really checked it for local runs, But its not going to be brilliant, but like you say, never really bought it for economy, but must say the 4.2 V8 Supercharged is one of the smoothest engines I've every driven. Its also worth mentioning if your after good or best economy out of your car, use the Cruise control more often, when the car is in cruise it goes into a economy mode, by keeping the revs as low as possible and locks the torque converter as well, there's a noticed difference in economy on my car if its driven without cruise control on runs cheers Joe

hi the switches are available on ebay as well cheers Joe

Hi You wont get the steering wheel buttons to work on any other stereo the buttons on the steering wheel communicate with the body control module with canbus and then communicates with the stereo also with canbus as far as I'm aware no one does a canbus adapter for steering controls for Jaguars cheers Joe

HI if its stuck on, its a easy fix if its been drilled and mounted then your stuck with it cheers Joe

Hi some people use windows tablets, as long as its got usb, thats it it has to be windows xp pro cheers Joe

Hi Just wondered who fitted your leaper Its looks from the pics the base is fitted backward and its also been fitted too far back on the bonnet cheers Joe

Hi Pete Yes much cheaper, there allways a weep hole on the water pump and when the mechanical seal fails thats where it drips from if yours is a V8 like mine, the water pump is very reasonably priced and easy to change, so less labor time cheers Joe

Hi Ralph Its not all that difficult to get setup with with Jaguar IDS/SDD I Paid £70 for my Mongoose lead and software, I bought it from British diagnostics, but I think there more towards £100 now, but its a genuine mongoose lead not a clone, I use v131 software, which came with it, its the most complete software and works with every model, IDS is used with pre 2005 cars and SDD is used with post 2005 cars the software can be downloaded from every where on the internet, v130 & v131 are known to be one of the best, have not tried v130 yet, later versions after v131 are more for later cars and you loose some functionality on earlier cars, and really later software you loose IDS. Software needs to be installed on a computer with windows XP professional, I've set up a laptop dedicated for the jaguar, Good spec laptops for windows xp professional can be bought for less that £50 for mint cond one, from like gumtree or sphock. The software can do everything Jaguar can, so must be used with caution, but if your using it as a Diagnostic tool, its quite straight forward, programing basic modules is also quite straight forward, like adding jaguar voice, phone module, basic modules, but I keep away from like updating software in transmission and engine. but as a Diagnostic tool its great, you can plug in and scan every module on the car and It will bring up all the fault code, give you a possible reason for the fault and a remedy for the fault the software can also be run on windows 7 up to latest windows, using software like VMWARE, which creating a virtual windows 7, which works ok, but is no where near a stable as using a windows xp pro laptop. you also have access to a lot of dealer options like alarm sensitivity, double lock horn chirp, panic, global locking, drl, automatic arming, are just a few will try upload some pics of the IDS software if I get chance cheers Joe

Hi Its usually a faulty coil pack, its a common problem on the V8's, especially if there the original ones It could be a air leak, causing a misfire, but I'd be more leaning towards a coil pack diagnosing this without any kit is going to be awkward, if its a air leak, I'd use torque app and a bluetooth obd tool and would show if you have a air leak easy by monitoring fuel trims for the coil pack or plugs I'd use Jaguar IDS/SDD software, connect it and drive it and it will log any misfires and would show exact which cylinder it is. my S-type R, in the engine ECU has a data logger built in, when you plug in with Jaguar IDS/SDD you can view this data and it store a massive amount of data, things like faults, misfire, all engine pressures and sensors, all gearbox sensors, speed, gps position, every thing, with the right software may be easy to find its not going to be easy to find with out jaguar software, unless it creates fault codes and eml comes one if it were mine, I'd change all eight plugs, if that dont work, i'd change all eight coil packs even if i knew which coil or plug it was, i'd still change all eight, if one has failed, the other 7 wont be far behind and fail eventually shame there's no one near you with jaguar software who could help you out cheers joe

Hi you can get solid flywheels, there on ebay a while ago all flywheels were solid and work very well and never failed the only advantage with dual mass, is they dampen out small amounts of vibration and you only going to notice when you press the clutch pedal also if it noisy when you press the clutch its the thrust bearing like you say, cheers Joe

Hi If its a petrol, what engine do you have its either going to be a bad spark plug or a coil pack if you have access to a engine code reader it should tell you which cylinder the misfire in on cheers Joe

Hi If disconnecting the battery does not clear it, then your will need a generic engine code reader to reset it I'm not sure on the dpf's but it may need calibrating with software, as its not the original, but might not usually when you fix the fault the eml and codes will clear, on there own after a battery reset maybe someone with a diesel will know more cheers Joe

hi have a look at the dccv, Dual coolant control valve its a water valve that control hot water to the l/h and r/h heater matrix there 2 solenoids, when heat is on, there will be 12volts there, water will flow and you will get hot pipes if you put it on lowest temp, then the solenoid should close, no volts on the solenoids, if the pipes both still get hot, the valve are stuck open and your aircon will never blow cold cheers Joe

hi I'd try change it yourself, like you said it would save you quite a bit on labour I assume its faulty and usually when they fail, they don't hold gas, so it shouldn't need degassing I have not changed one on a x-type, but I assume the 2.0d model has the most space in the engine bay, compared to the v6's cheers Joe

Hi I'd give a quick wipe down and run it up to temp the watch it, you should be able to see where its coming from expansion tanks are known to leak from the seam, also can leak from the bleed screw if the o-ring is on its way and the little pipe left side is known to go brittle, crack and snap off radiators usually rot at the bottom first, due to all the wet and crap that hits it cheers Joe