The Voices

I think he said in his original post that it had been drained and the 20 litres of fresh diesel added ?

Read the fault codes, this should give you more information rather than just replacing parts ?

I would agree, put in a tank full of the best grade 'super diesel' you can find and a bottle of injector cleaner for good measure. Then run it for a week, probably with a few motorway runs and see how it does. Would be very surprised if 2 miles with petrol in has damaged the injectors, especially if you aren't noticing any change in how the car drives.

I would probably have a chat with them about the anticipated January delivery ? Latest info is between 6 and 9 months for most models, from the latest bulletin this week from JLR.

I don't know, but I suspect that to get a policy that would cover you for 'above market value', you would need an independent valuation from a recognised expert ? Probably the JDC or similar ?

I guess the 'dealer' will just say that they found a fault with the tyres so replaced them with correct size and speed rating. It's astonishing how many non franchise dealers have the attitude that 'tyres are tyres' irrespective of brand or quality. You mention that you have already had the alloys refurbished (presumably because they needed it), it might be that the dealer swapped the wheels (and tyres ?) from another car to avoid refurbing the originals ?

Thankfully, no ! All joking aside, I would guess that chrome rims are quite rare in the UK. You might need to look at importing from the US ?

Don't I know it !

It's the keyhole to manually unlock the boot in emergencies, doesn't have a cover, nothing missing.

Not without a lot of work that would cost a fortune, it would probably literally be cheaper to just buy an S-TYPE R in the first place ? To do it right, you would need a full car as a donor anyway, not just the engine. The 4.0 V8 is the first generation pre-facelift model, the STR is only available in the post facelift version, so there are a lot of other differences other than the engine. You would need the brakes, suspension and gearbox swapped as a minimum, you would then need an engineers report for the car to be insurable and legal on the road.

I had to replace the condenser on my 2015 XE 'S' A known issue, but Jaguar wouldn't replace under Approved warranty.

Think he means the engine cooling fans ?

First thing to do is check the battery voltage, these cars are prone to throwing up 'spurious' fault messages (ABS, gearbox, DSC not available, etc) if the battery is not in excellent condition. It may still have enough power to start the car, so you think it can't be the battery, but a search on the forum will show how many issues are solved with a new battery. Hope this helps.

If you paid £37k for it when it was 18 months old and it is now worth £16k at 5 years old, that is £21k depreciation in 42 months. £500 per month depreciation is about what I would expect on this type of car ?

Hi Wayne, hope it is just the fuel, I believe that it deteriorates fairly quickly when the car is not used.

A Jaguar dealer should be able to provide the original code and supply a key from the chassis number, they may ask for various 'proof of ownership' information before supplying anything. The new key fob will need to be programmed to the car, usually main dealer needed to do this ?

If the car has been stood for 2 years, I would suspect that the fuel in the tank is not up to much ? Worth siphoning out what you can and putting in a few gallons of fresh fuel maybe ?

Might be worth paying for a main dealer diagnosis, you can then use whoever you want to do the work once you know what the solution is ?

Contact Jaguar customer service ? It is only a year out of manufacturers warranty, I would expect some goodwill from them.

I only ever use Shell V-Power (99 octane), the ECU is supposed to be able to 'learn' and adjust itself to improve performance when supplied with better quality fuel. Could all be in my head but for the small premium over 'branded' 93 or 95 octane, it can't do any harm.

It isn't 'behind' the number plate on the S-TYPE. The keyhole is located above the number plate on the boot plinth that houses the number plate lights, to the left hand side if looking at the car from the back. I would suggest spraying WD40 or similar into the keyhole before trying your key, the manual lock doesn't get used often and can be hard to turn.

I would guess it will be the 'clock spring' (squib) that is causing the problem ? Had the same issue with my car but also accompanied by the airbag warning light flashing. Replaced the clock spring unit and problem(s) solved.

I don't know unfortunately, never heard of anyone having to replace one ?

Probably cheaper to get one from a breaker and pay to get it fitted ?

The rates quoted in the original post only apply to new cars registered from 1st April 2020