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Really worth a watch and saying "WOW" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpRFagIbcPEGB

Here I press out the hub and ball-joint from my spare o/s front suspension upright ready to fit new parts. It's not a complicated job as such but you do need the right kit and the ability to hit things really hard without breaking them. This is a basic diagram of the front suspension : The home made press frame which utilises a porta power hydraulic chassis repair ram. Here's the upright in the press. I loosened the four bolts but left them in an equal amount so I could push on them all at once to start with rather than the centre of the hub. This lessens the chance of the hub going out of alignment and damaging the upright: A clearer view of the back of the hub: This hub came out with barely any pressure, unlike the ball-joint which was stuck so very tight: Setting fire to it didn't help.. I cut the pin off as it makes it easier to push, hammer and generally abuse the joint. Eventually the ball-joint let go. It took two of us, a lot of heat in the upright and lots of hammering to get it to move. Once it moved a little getting it out the rest of the way was easy. I did the other side last year and in contrast the ball-joint was dead easy whilst the hub put up a real fight and took over 12 tons to push out. I actually prefer that it that way around because getting the upright correctly set up in a press for the ball-joint is very tricky. The upper end of the upright is right in the way and as you can see there's very little meat on the upright around the ball-joint to get a purchase on. Having anything even a little of centre is not an option, you have to be spot on with these sorts of forces involved and the consequences of distorting the alloy parts are pretty big, especially if it's your cars original one. All in I would say that this is a doable but awkward job with many variables relating to the corrosion holding onto the hub and ball-joint. It could be easy, it could take you all afternoon. Personally I wouldn't tackle it with the original upright from my car, only with a spare one as I did here because if it goes wrong then you aren't stranded with no car and no spare upright. I have heard of them being scrap because the hub is stuck so tight.. Fitting the new hub is easy as it's not a true interference fit, just snug. The ball-joint is different. It's purely interference and the same things that make it awkward to remove in a press make it a pain to fit. I will be exploring different options and will update as and when I do it.

Hi All just thought I would share my good news, She sailed through and passed another MOT, with no advisories again. I have had the EML on the dash for a few months, but the AA said it was DS rear wheel speed sensor, and was safe to drive until I got it looked at (which I did) anyway got that changed yesterday before the MOT and as I said, she passed with flying colours Regards Steve

There's a guide here with pictures...... http://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=68955

Hi Peter....welcome to the Club Feel free to post up a picture of your new Jag Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

My S type had its MOT last week and passed. I had asked my mobile mechanic to run it through a full diagnostic test --- he has the full set of equipment to do so. He did - no issues or codes came up, Cost == FREE. I think it could be worth have a Terraclean service done on your car. It is well worth the £125 or so you will have to pay. Regards, Peter.

as for your limp mode? look to see what kind of turbo actuator you have? if its one like this the mechanism inside fails and stops working...which then puts the car into limp mode but may also give a glowplug warning light too. so you need to buy a new one and fit .. easy to do job. cost of actuators vary around from £75 to £100.... right if it is this one check to make sure that the actuator arm moves from the unit to the turbo unit? if not then this is definitely the actuator unit that has broke and needs replacing with a new unit.

you do not have to depressurise the fuel system, there is a screw underneath so you can drain the diesel out first from the filter if need be? but make sure you have a container and some rags handy, plus rubber gloves as diesel spillage for when you remove the clips.! take a photo or draw a diagram so you know where the clips go for when you place them back on the new filter.( in the right order) then turn the car over until it starts... may take a while for the diesel to get through so do be patient.

Hi Guys The mystery of the thick black smoke from my 2.7 S type turned out to be nothing more than a burst inter-cooler pipe feeding one of the turbo's. My thanks to everyone who contributed help and advice. Martyn

Hi Dutchy That looks sad news even though that model was never available here in the UK; no doubt something to do with emissions etc??? My partner (still nursing bruises inflicted whilst looking at Jag Mk V adverts plus a Mk VIII available in South Africa!) remembers having the polar opposite of the Falcon range (most powerful 6-cylinder in-line engine).......least powerful 6-cylinder in-line ......early 1980s, whilst in Western/Central USA - a AMC (Rambler) Concorde with a 4-litre straight six that wouldn't pull your hat off. Switch on air con whilst climbing a long grade and even the bicycles were keeping up! With no particular relevance, you may remember a 2007 film called "Atonement" with Keira Knightley and James McAvoy.......large parts filmed at Stokesay Court, Shropshire, not far from us...........here's some pics, you may, if film seen, remember the significance of the ornamental pond. Significant other suggests the MkV would look good outside the entrance door. Now if I could get him to sit on the edge of the pond................

Here's a link to a thread I started in the S-type section recently. Please post any questions or replies on the original thread otherwise things will get messy.