Big John

Hi This should help and might allow you to accurately diagnose your issue. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Information and Entertainment Systems.pdf Regards John

Hi Joe, and welcome. This may help: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Body and Paint.pdf Around page 306 John

Hi Adam and welcome. Are these what you are looking for? https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--Jaguar-XF-Anti-Roll-Bars-Bushes--m-20456 Assuming you are not looking for 2016 on. 🙂 Regards John

Hi Chris and welcome 🙂 When you say it was repaired by Jaguar I assume you took it to a main dealer for the repair. In my experience most dealers then pass the car to a bodywork specialist to actually do the repair work but your contract remains with the company that you (or the insurance company) paid to do the repair, probably the Jaguar dealer. My first port of call would be the Jag dealer as it sounds to me like a software issue. The chances of both fob batteries failling together are pretty low. My guess is it needs a software reset, as they almost certainly disconnected the battery, which should be simple and done at no cost to you. Let us know how you get on. Regards John

Love mine to bits. No less reliable than anything else, just try and buy one that has been loved and serviced regularly. In my view a wad of bills that have been paid means the ones you have to to fund will be fewer. My wife got a 2015 Skoda Rapid 1.6D at the same time I got my 2013 XF Sportbrake 2.2D S (200). Servicing and repairs on hers has cost more than on the Jag over last 2.5 years. Other than service items I have had top balljoints on front suspension replaced (£400) and new rear discs and pads mostly worn by previous owner (£350) and I have done 25000 mile and discs are like new (gentle right foot). Only really important check is in the boot as water can get in and fill the wheel well - which is where a lot of the computer modules seem to sit so repair can be quite expensive. Mine had it done before I bought it at a cost of £1200. I keep a couple of silica gel bags in there now just in case but bone dry. 🙂 As with all modern luxury cars they are very demanding on electricity and if you are only doing short journeys I would invest in a Ctek battery maintainer as the cause of electrical gremlins which you will have heard are the main weakness of modern Jags are in fact usually due to a weak battery. Likewise I only use Shell V Power Diesel and do a motorway run a couple of times a month to clean the EGR and DPF. Really nice review is here: Just do it, you won't regret it 🙂

Hi Chris Depends on your engine but Jaguar dealers should do it on the fixed price servicing for 3+ years. Costs are here: https://www.swanswaygarages.com/jaguar/servicing-parts/fixed-priced/ Obviously an independent will be probably be a bit cheaper. Regards John

Hi Tracey Welcome. First choice, given the cost, would be to get some more batteries which are from a reputable source and a well known brand. Batteries do have a shelf life and if they are from fleabay they may be either very old or not very good. Regards John

Hi Think you need to get any DTC codes read. Like everything else on these cars it is not a simple wire to the bulb, an earth connection and a switch. There are a whole host of computer modules, leveling sensors, motors, LAN connections, warning lights etc. etc. A fault in any will cause issues. I am waiting for a diagnostic on the "Camera Unavailable" issue after my supplying non-jag dealer diagnosed faulty parking sensor which is still not working after replacing it 😞 In my case itis probably a faulty front bumper wiring loom which if faulty closes down both camera and parking assistance system and gives a really loud 3 second warning so that you know you are "flying solo". Without a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) you end up chasing your tail and just replacing parts and hoping it works. Regards John

Hi Alan My first port of call would be the battery state of charge. Low voltage causes all sorts of random issues. Has the Stop/Start been working OK? If not cause is likely a low voltage. Do you have a charger? If so connect it ASAP. If not, and the car still starts, go for a long run and turn as many electrics as possible off to allow the alternator to recharge the battery. If all of the above don't help please come back as I am sure that there are more wise heads than mine to help you. 🙂 Regards John

Hi I would start with those connectors you previously identified and check if there is any corrosion on the contact faces of their mating surfaces. I assume you have also dried out all of the "electrics" in the boot and emptied the pool of water if there is one? Regards John

Hi When you say it cranked a couple of times then gave in I presume you mean it just stopped turning the engine. That certainly sounds like a low battery voltage could be the problem. Low voltage causes all sorts of issues with the multiple computers. You say it is a new battery. Is it an AGM? If your 11.7v was resting voltage battery is pretty well drained. as a rough guide resting AGM state of charge for 100% is 12.8v, 0% is 11.8v, I would try charging battery in first instance.

Hi If you have an AGM battery with a Stop/Start system make sure you replace with an AGM battery. They are more expensive but they are what is required. Regards John

I will be renewing my 3 year rolling service plan in the new year but that is because it is tied to a "warranty 4 life" (Non-Jag). Looking at the cost of fixed price servicing for 3+years at Jag Dealers your service at 4 years and 6 years if you include a Brake fluid change would be around £800-900. Add to that the cost of the 2 year Service and you are probably not far off your quote.Personally I would never go 2 years between oil changes but I am old school 🙂 For me the decider is do you rate the dealers service and how much is it worth to have a contractual service arrangement with a main dealer in case of future problems? Obviously if you were happy to go to a specialist rather than a main dealer you could probably halve that quote. Decisions Decisions 🙂

Hi I would ensure battry is fully charged. Low voltage events are well known to corrupt the software which could be the cause. Was the garage where you had the work done a Jag dealer? Regards John

Hi Pretty sure you will also need to swap the Rear Door Control Module from your exisiting door to the new one or the new one will need reprogramming to the car. Regards John

Hi John Joe is quite right. Blue = Oil, Black = Soot. You say it is a recent purchase, in which case I would be going back to the seller if they are a dealer. When you say the Garage has carried out "every test" have they done as Joe suggests and looked for oil in the air intake system. Have you checked engine oil level is not over-filled? Regards John

Hi Baskar If it was me I would be at the dealers speaking quite loudly to the boss in the middle of the showroom and making my concerns very clear. If it has been with them for a week and they have not sorted it are they expecting it to just magically repair itself? If they have changed the Battery and the problem is not sorted what is their plan? As they already have the car you are a little constrained but I would want to know what Diagnostic codes they pulled from the vehicle before changing the battery. Also check your warranty as although the "battery" may be excluded so you may be on the hook for that cost (you probably would have needed to change it fairly soon anyway if it was the original) the current problem is clearly not "THE BATTERY" as that has been changed and the problem is still there. I would be looking in detail to see if the policy was based on listed items: "We cover the following items only", or exclusionary: "We cover everything EXCEPT the following." In terms of repair you first need the codes then it SHOULD be a fairly simple (not the same as cheap I am afraid) process to identify the cause and repair it. Hope you get it sorted soon John

Hi Baskar Sorry to hear of your problems. Have you tried holding the key under the auxilliary switch panel to see if it is then recognised? I had a totally flat battery due to lack of usage during covid lockdown so feel your pain. My only problem was non opening rear doors (totally locked) and inopperative rear windows. Sorted under warranty but believe it was a cheap re-programming fix if the garage know what they doing. Mine was in the dealers (non-jag) overnight but that was simply to re-charge the battery. Basically these cars have multiple modules which are little computers connected by networks. They are VERY sensitive to software corruption due to low voltage or very high voltage (that is why they have small second battery to supply the sensitive bits during a stop/start. However the car has a number of copies of all of the original files it needs which are used by the diagnostics to repair corrupted files; I presume Independant Jag specialists are rare where you are but if not that would be my first port of call. In the UK generic auto electrical diagnostics can sort the problems caused by a flat battery (Autologic systems work well). THe AGM battery used in the XF is expensive (Jag dealers charge similar to your quote) but they can be bought retail for less than £150 and are quite easy to fit. Ideally they should be set up with diagnostics but the car will do this itself if you just leave it (windows and handbrake need re-setting as well). If it is still the original battery (now 6 years old) it could need changing but the whole point of the AGM is that it survives deep discharge well which is why it is used in Stop/Start systems. To be honest I would expect them to be able to diagnose and fix the problem pretty quick. If not is another garage an option? Kind regards John

Hi Rob I am with Old Peter. I have a Ctek MXS Stop/Start which is mind numbingly simple to use, particulalry with a "comfort" extension permenantly attached in the boot. It really is plug and play with no choices to make or modes to set as it designed for AGM batteries. Regards John

Hi Mark. Have you reset all journeys? Mine has A and B and you can select the one to display. Reset only affects the selected one . Other than that I am out of ideas I am afraid 😞 Regards John

Keep the Jag and hire a Tesla as required 🙂 Simmples..

Hi Mark Just a thought but have you reset the journey it is calculating the figures on? Could be previous owner drove around town and had a very heavy right foot so you average is still including their driving. If I reset mine at a steady 60 on the motorway it can go as high as 60+ mpg. I have mine set so it records the average over the "entire" journey which for me is currently well over 2000 miles since I last did a reset. Regards John

Hi Tracey Only if they were standard or the original owner added the "mirror pack" when ordering 😞 Mine is a 2013 Sportbrake S and they are not fitted so the only options on my screen are, like yours, about windows global opening and global closing. Still think it was not really acceptable to have this as an option on a Jag but have to live with it as I still love the car. 🙂 Regards John

Hi Mark and welcome Mine is a 2013 XF Sportbrake S with the 200bhp engine. I average around 44-45mpg with my driving which is fairly gentle driving locally for 30% of time and Motorway at 70(ish) the remainder so yours does seem a little "thirsty" if you are doing similar. However "enthusiastic" driving could well account for that sort of difference. Assume you have checked things like tyre pressures and tracking. Regards John

Don't worry if it shows only 12.2v when the engine is running. It does that as part of the self-calibration routine. When mine is doing a calibration it drops to 12.2v under load but goes back up to 13+ on the over-run. When not calibrating mine is steady at around 14.8-14.9v. When calibrating it fully charges the battery then discharges it to 70% but never below12.2v to work out the battery capacity and state of health. It should then fully recharge. Hope your battery survived its swimming lesson 🙂 John