Big John

Hi I use the Bridgestone Weather Control A005 all seasons (all 4 corners) and am very impressed with the performance so far (A rated for rain) but not had any thick snow to test them in yet. I also have 4 Jaguar snow socks for the next "Beast from the East" but they are still in the wrapping and have never actually needed them in the 3 years I have had the car! John

..... but only if they were originally fitted 😞 Mine does not have them. John

Hi Misfueling device has been triggered. There is a yellow plastic tool on top of the battery to reset it. Basically push it down the filler and lift Look down the filler and you will see a bright yellow flap with a symbol of a manual on it. Instructions are in the handbook or just google it as there are good videos on youtube. Land Rover has the same system. Regards John

Hi My starting point would be to read the DTC codes as without them you really are guessing. John

Hi Bill Was the battery changed in an attempt to solve these problems? If so it is possible that the previous battery allowed one or more low voltage events which triggered the faults, effectively corrupting a bit of the software which you are now living with the consequences of. Bottom line is you need to get the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) read and cleared. If it was a problem battery that may well sort it. However I would guess the most likely culprit to be an ABS wheel sensor. In order for the TCM (transmission control module) to control the gearbox it requires inputs from a range of other systems sensors, such as the ABS system which tells it how fast each wheel is turning. All of the sensors are used by multiple sytems and a fault in a sensor will throw a warning in all of the dependant systems down the line. My advice is to get the codes read as this should at the very least point you in the right direction Let us know how you get on. Regards John

Hi Personally I would not entertain changing the system. (see what I did there!). The electronics on these cars are very interconnected and I would be frightened to death of bricking the car. As others have said a much safer option is to look at using access via aux sockets or even one of those FM tramsmitters you could attach to your phones headphone socket . John

...at least you did only claim to be "notionally capable"! As Eric Morecambe might have put it, The bulbs were all there, but not Necessarily in the right order! 🤣

Don't forget the air filter. If it was a main service the air filter should have been changed at which point something could have been dropped into the air intake. Anything solid could easily damage a turbo... Perhaps require they give you the damaged turbo as condition of repair which would allow you to have it examined for the cause of damage. Good luck John

Hi Don't think any maker will put in writing how long a part is expected to last but that is a very short life in a main dealer serviced car. These guys are from sussex and seem to have good reviews https://www.arunltd.com/ I would still want some more detail from the diagnostic such as the textual explanation for each of the codes and an explanation of what "bit" has failed to need an entire replacement unit. I would also be chasing Jaguar for a contribution at that mileage and age in a main dealer serviced car. Out of interest did they change the air filter?... something dropped down the air inlet perhaps..... I think I must be one of the few satisfied with my warranty (warranty 4 life) from Motorparks which do have several Jaguar dealers in the group. Upto 10 years or 100k it pretty well covers everything and after that still covers big stuff like turbos. Good luck John

Hi Paul Can you name and shame please. That sort of Bullshit attempt to get out of honouring a warranty contract needs airing so others can avoid them! Glad they eventually paid up. John

Hi That mileage is very low for a turbo failure. I assume you have checked MOT history and are happy that mileage and service history are genuine... I would be going to a trusted garage for a diagnostic or even a Jag main dealer who will probably charge around £100 but at least you will be sure it needs doing if you have a second opinion with the same diagnosis. I would have expected a "mechanical failure" of a turbo to be a little more theatrical than a restricted performace light! At least a bit of a bang and some smoke in the exhaust. Please let us know how you get on. Good luck John

My understanding is that a double beep indicates a failed lock test so the car thinks one or more door(s) or boot/tailgate has failed to report a successful lock engagement, not the same as an actual failure to lock 🙂

If you are like me you may find peace of mind in getting a ctek Battery sense: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-40-149-Vehicle-Battery-Monitor/dp/B0188TGF6W/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=CTEK+Battery+Sense+40-149&qid=1629981144&s=automotive&sr=1-1 At least then you will know when the battery is getting low and can take it for a good run. Bluetooth range on mine is at least 20m through a window with line of sight to the boot of the car. Hope the sensor sorts it. John

Hi Ray and welcome. Is it all doors that unlock with the emergency key or just the door you are using the key in? Will the other doors unlock from inside the car? This sort of issue is often caused by a low battery but may need a garage to sort once it has happened as the software can be corrupted. Some Jag main dealers seem to go straight to "you need to change 2 of the computer modules and that'll be £1000 please". However there are others (Jag dealers included) who will sort it much cheaper. Garages that use the Autologic computer system seem able to sort in minutes for less than £100. Basically they are able to put a new copy of the cars software into the corrupt module from one of the copies stored in the car itself. Let us know how you get on. Regards John

Hi David Pretty sure there is a fault in the offside front ABS sensor or its wiring loom. Not an expert but my understanding is that the The Controller Area Network is how the various computers (modules) talk to each other and the Buses are how the "computer" bit of the module connects to the outside world, in this case the CAN. So those U0001- codes could indicate a fault in the module wiring, or just as likely a poor earth connection or even a low voltage event. Next step for me would be to see if the S/S is now working. If it is, I would get the ABS sensor sorted and have the codes cleared. Hopefully all sorted. If the S/S is still not working and you have a new main battery (hope you have swapped like for like i.e AGM for AGM) then have a look at the secondary one as the S/S only works if both can cope with the stop/restart process. The little one's job is to supply a steady voltage to the sensitive components during an engine restart which is handled by the big battery. If the last time the S/S worked the voltage from the little one dropped that might have caused the U0001 DTCs Finally if you have access to be able to regulalry use a charger I would invest in a Ctek for peace of mind. I also have the Ctek Battery sense bluetooth monitor on mine so I always know what the battery state is. Good luck John

Hi If you are getting 12.4 v on a cigarette lighter socket voltmeter with the car unlocked but not running the true resting voltage is probs 12.8v (fully charged). As soon as you unlock the car (and enable the socket) the car is drawing around 4 Amps and voltage drops significantly. As mentioned before, if S/S works battery is fine. I would be looking at an ABS wheel sensor as cause, along with a fault in the TPMS which luckily I don't have as they are very tempremental. One approach to sorting the TPMS is to over-inflate the tyres and then reduce pressures back to normal. If that does not work it is most likely a wheel Tyre pressure sender at fault. Systems like traction control rely on knowing how fast each wheel is turning, so a faulty ABS wheel sensor (which is what measures each wheels speed) will generate a fault which forces other functions that rely on its input to fail and throw a warning light so you know that function is not available. A failed parking sensor will switch off the reversing camera as well and alert you that you are "on your own" as there is a fault so don't blame us if you hit something when reversing! Good luck John

Hi The photos are from my 2013 XF Sportbrake, so yes it is really easy to see. In my case it was like that when I picked it up from the dealer at purchase. Whilst arranging to take it back for them to sort I found the way to sort it on the Internet. Kind regards John

Hi David First question would be does the stop / start work? If it does battery should be OK, If not then low battery, particulalry as you have not been doing decent journeys may well be the issue. Next on my list would be an ABS wheel sensor as if there is a problem in that systems lots of other things will not be able to work as they use the input from the wheel sensors. Good luck John

Hi Petrol and diesel pumps are different diameters. The flap is deployed automatically if you put a petrol pump into the diesel filler. As others have already said it is a simple fix using the yellow plastc tool stored on the battery. When you look down the filler there should be nothing much to see. If you see a bright yellow piece of plastic with the symbol of a manual on it you need to reset it. This video is on a Land Rover Disco but it is identical

Hi Access is by removing rear wheel and wheel arch liner. Diagrams and instructions are in the workshop manual available here: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/2010XFRWorkshop.pdf page 1609 Good luck John

Hi Steph Fuel filter is certainly a possibility and cheap to do but it should have been changed at the last major service along with the air filter. My reasoning about a Jag diagnostic is that they will have SDD diagnostics rather than generic and from previous experience with Saabs there were sometimes issues that only the Saab Tech 2 system would report. Have you checked the batteries? Non functioning S/S suggests that there is an issue there and I am pretty sure that even when the car detects a problem itdoes not always throw a DTC. As I said before low voltages can cause all sorts of random issues so maybe worth investing in a cheap voltmeter. Regards John

Hi Amanda Welcome and sorry to hear of your problem. As Julie says it would really help to know more details of your model XF, XJ, S type etc and engine type and size. Often the cause for the Engine Malfunction light is emissions related such as a sensor or the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve getting clogged with soot. Have you noticed any loss of power (it will be noticeable if there is any)? What kind of journeys do you do? Just short trips or lots of motorway runs? The more you can tell us about the car and the symptoms the more likely it is that someone may be able to advise.. Kind regards John

Hi Glyn If you took the main battery voltage with the car unlocked your measured voltage will almost certainly be at least 0.2-0.3v below true resting voltage as the car starts drawing about 4A as soon as it wakes with an unlock. I use the Ctek Battery Sense Bluetooth monitor which at £50 odd is a bit OCD but at least I can then be sure of the battery state 🙂 Short (pardon the pun) of a battery terminal problem such as some corrosion it does sound like a fault in the Dual Battery Junction Box but one that can be lived with as the majority of owners seem to prefer S/S to not work anyway. I presume you have already checked for the "swimming pool" in the spare wheel well? John

Hi I feel your pain. After flat battery during lockdown I had non-operating rear doors, thankfully sorted under warranty. This has come up before on this forum and it sounds like there is a garage in Milton Keynes who seem better than most called E&E. Might be worth trying them. Previous thread is here: Good luck John

Hi Auxilliary battery is fine and the main is probably at 80% plus as it takes several hours to get a true resting voltage and the car can take a good 30mins to fully go to sleep. Good luck John